The burger: Another remarkable cheeseburger is defying the double-patty trend. This time, it's at the Bird, the breakfast-and-lunch remake of the Third Bird that belongs on everyone's dining-out radar. Chef Kevin Kathman has a clear reason for embracing the single-patty formula.
"Because everyone is doing the double patty," he said. "Joe Rolle [formerly of Borough and Il Foro, now at the soon-to-open Martina] is that creator of all that, isn't he?"
This armchair burger historian would say, "yes."
Kathman – he's culinary director for restaurateur Kim Bartmann's eight Minneapolis restaurants, a roster that includes Tiny Diner, Pat's Tap, Bryant Lake Bowl and Barbette – is clearly a sharp editor, because this is one of those burgers where the patty – a bruiser that clearly tops the quarter-pound weight division -- does nearly all the heavy lifting. Big, beefy flavor is the clear priority.
"The beef is from Andy Peterson," he said. [That's always a good sign, by the way]. "We just give it a little bit of love."
That affection comes in form of salt and pepper. Outside of the stove's heat, nothing else is required to bring that premium ground beef to its fullest flavor, with an exterior that's evenly caramelized and an interior that's notably juicy and streaked with faint streaks of pink.
Sticking with that editor's skill set, Kathman keeps the embellishments to a minimum.
"I really just wanted to make a good burger," said Kathman. "One with pickles, and government cheese, because anyone who grew up in the Midwest [he hails from Cold Spring, Minn.] grew up on Velveeta. We use a decent white Cheddar, the kind that reminds all of us of our youth."
