The burger: The phrase "Miracle on Main Street" is being applied to the sleek, energetic rebirth of the Leader, the generations-old department store in downtown Cambridge, Minn. But it could also apply to the burger being served at Willards, the store's highly appealing restaurant.
That's because said burger is the resurrection of the Perfect Burger, the aptly named bacon cheeseburger that, for several years, drew legions of devoted fans to chef Erick Harcey's now-defunct Victory 44 in north Minneapolis.
And perfect, it was. And is, an impeccable blend of simplicity and complexity, in a bun.
That bun, for starters, is a treat, the soft, rich "milk bun" from the Salty Tart. Toasted in butter and swiped in a decadent Dijonnaise, its scale is precisely tailored to the patty, a thick-ish five-ouncer that's grilled – in plenty of butter – on a hot flat top stove.
Harcey uses a fat-enriched blend of chuck, short rib and rib eye. All of that butter, combined with the stove's intense heat, invests a slightly crisped-up crust on the patty's exterior, but doesn't diminish the beef's inherent juiciness. The patty's outer edges don't form a clean perimeter; instead, there are lots of nooks and crannies that create opportunities to develop all kinds of flavor-packed charred bits.
Garnishes are kept to a minimum, but piled on with an almost maniacal glee. Two strips of smoky bacon intensify the beef's richness, and a pair of American cheese slices contribute a notable level of gooiness. The pickles definitely make a statement. They're teased with mustard seed and celery seed, and stacked at least as high as the patty itself.
"In most of my food, I like to include what appears to be a fresh component," said Harcey. "Here, it's the crunch of the cucumbers, with the balance of acid and sweet." Again, perfect.
There's an occasional slice of raw jalapeno, mixed in with the pickles, for a bright but not overpowering flash of heat. That's it for the vegetables.
