St. Louis-based Caleres, which owns a diverse portfolio of shoe companies, has acquired Allen Edmonds from Brentwood Associates for $255 million.
Caleres said the acquisition of Wisconsin-based Allen Edmonds, maker of men's premium handcrafted leather footwear and accessories, is a strategic expansion within men's footwear.
Three years ago, Brentwood of California, paid about $200 million to Minneapolis-based private equity investor Goldner Hawn Johnson & Morrision for Edmonds, which is based in Port Washington, north of Milwaukee.
Allen Edmonds is a turnaround story thanks to Goldner Hawn and one of its former partners, Paul Grangaard.
As Allen Edmonds' fortunes sank during the 2008-09 recession, Goldner Hawn invested another $10 million to keep Edmonds, which couldn't make debt payments, from closing its doors. Other equity partners that had joined Goldner in the 2006 leveraged buyout wrote off their stakes and backed out. Grangaard, a career investment banker and manager who joined Goldner Hawn from Piper Jaffray, left Goldner Hawn in 2008 and moved to Wisconsin to try and turn around one of the last domestic shoe makers.
Grangaard doubled down on Allen Edmonds classic styles for business and casual wear, jettisoning some peripheral products, and hung on until the recovery kicked in for the company in 2010.
Grangaard rehired laid off workers and added about 250 manufacturing and sales jobs between 2010 and 2013. There are more than 1,050 workers today, including 300 in the Dominican Republic. He opened a downtown Minneapolis store that became one of the best performers.
Goldner Hawn also made an unspecified, multi-million dollar gain on its investment through the Brentwood buyout in 2013.