Editor's note: In January 2015, Lonnie Dupre of Grand Marais, Minn., reached the summit of Mount Denali, the tallest mountain in North America. He did it alone, and he did it during the coldest and darkest time of year.
In his new book, written with Star Tribune reporter Pam Louwagie, he tells how he almost died in the attempt.
Before falling asleep, I put in a set of earplugs to dampen the sound of the rattling tent walls and made myself think of something positive. I was snug and warm there, and I was safe. After retrieving my supplies in the morning, I could rest for a couple of days. I didn't even bother setting my alarm, knowing I could get up at my leisure. All I had to do the next day was ski down to grab my stuff, then haul it up. It would take only a couple of hours.
Oh, man, does this feel good, I thought as I drifted off, unaware of the wind continuing to increase outside.
The tent walls rattled violently when I woke the next morning after nine. I zipped open the door to a sea of white. I couldn't even see the giant rock slope about one hundred yards to the north.
I got dressed and got out of the tent to assess the situation. A foot of snow covered the supplies that I had left outside. I was in a protected amphitheater so I wasn't feeling direct winds, but strong gusts had managed to whip up the snow. It swirled around me as in one of those snow globes people display at Christmas. Thin lines of flakes obscured not only the dark rock wall but also the icefall and the saddle leading up to Windy Corner. Really, all I could see was my tent next to me, which had been buried even more by the snow. I knew I wouldn't be getting my cache that day.
Traveling in whiteout conditions is like pulling a sheet over your head and trying to find something without falling into a crevasse or falling off the edge of a cliff. You can't see dropoffs or rocks until you're right on top of them. The only reference to direction is the way the wind pushes you.
I had sat through many whiteouts before, and I didn't expect this one would last long. I dug out the one day's ration of food I had left in the sled — a gallon-sized Ziploc plastic bag stuffed with snacks that would serve as a breakfast, a lunch, and a dinner — and set it to the side of my tent. It wasn't much, but I still had the emergency supply in my backpack. I started to organize my belongings, and when I finally got around to unzipping the backpack, my stomach sank.