It's a short-order switcheroo. After more than four decades of blueberry-walnut pancake artistry, Al's Breakfast co-owner Jim Brandes quietly slipped into well-earned retirement.
A new owner has stepped into Brandes' role. True to the change-averse universe that is Al's, Brandes' replacement is a familiar face. She's Alison Kirwin, a 20-year vet of the 14-seat Dinkytown treasure.
In a recent conversation at the restaurant's yellow linoleum-topped counter, Kirwin and co-owner Doug Grina — his history with Al's dates to the late 1970s — talked about their new partnership, shared stories from Al's 66-year-history (the late Al Bergstrom first fired up the griddle on May 15, 1950) and revealed a few behind-the-scenes details of the Twin Cities' tiniest restaurant.
Q: Alison, how does it feel to be an owner of a landmark restaurant?
Kirwin: I'm really excited about it. Jim officially retired in October, and at the end of October I signed the papers. It's funny, because I feel like I've done the easiest transition that anyone could ask for in a restaurant, because I've bought something that almost runs itself. Al's is a really comfortable place to get stuck. As I spent more time here over the years, it became clear to me that this was the place where I wanted to be.
Q: How did you get your start at Al's?
Kirwin: I've been here for 20 years. I had a friend who was working here, and from time to time I'd come in and help finish up at the end of the day. One day someone needed a shift covered, and there was no one else who was available to do it, so I signed up. I consider myself self-hired. It was my 22nd birthday. Happy birthday! That's how I always remember my anniversary here.
Q: Did you have any inkling that you were bound for a career in restaurants?