Graceland and Paisley Park. They're as different as Memphis and Minneapolis, as rock and funk, as the 6-foot King and the 5-foot-2 Prince. Elvis had his stud-decorated jumpsuits, an endless supply of silk scarves and a big necklace with his lightning "TCB" (taking care of business) logo. Prince had his colorful custom-designed outfits, an endless collection of shoes with 4-inch heels and a big necklace with his unpronounceable glyph.
Clothes may make the man, as the saying goes, but it's a tour of the buildings identified with these late music icons that defines their lives and careers. Now both are run by the same company, Graceland Holdings LLC. And the same person, Angie Marchese, is the chief archivist at both museums in these Mississippi River cities. She has been with Elvis for 27 years and with Prince for four-plus months, although she did see him perform when she was in eighth grade.
We took the VIP tours of Graceland ($80) in November and Paisley Park ($100) in December.
Function
Graceland was Elvis' place of residence for 20 years. Sure, he had recording equipment, pianos and guitars at the ready, but it was primarily his home. Paisley Park was conceived as a place of creativity. It has three recording studios, a giant soundstage, rehearsal rooms, a tailor's shop and warehouse space. It also had two apartments on the second floor, and one of them became Prince's Minnesota residence after he split with his second wife in 2006 and had their house razed.
At Graceland, the upstairs — Elvis' living quarters and the bathroom in which he was found dead in 1977 — are not open to the public. Similarly, the upper level of Paisley Park is closed. And the elevator in which he was found dead in April 2016 is covered by a display in Paisley's atrium.
Vibe
Even though he didn't build the place (he bought it from a doctor's family in 1957), Graceland oozes Elvis. It's garish, fun, playful, homey, lived in. By contrast, Paisley Park, which was built to Prince's specifications in 1986, doesn't smell like Prince. No candles or incense burn anymore. The overly bright complex suggests its creator, with clouds painted on the ceiling in the atrium, and his two doves, Divinity and Majesty, crying from their cages on the off-limits second floor.
Paisley, like Prince, reeks of privacy, a keep-your-hands-off paranoia. It feels sterile, clinical, almost staged, which it is to some extent. At Paisley, there are no photos allowed; in fact, cellphones are forbidden. At Graceland, take as many photos as you desire — as long as you don't use flash. Like the King dispensing scarves to his faithful at the foot of the stage at his concerts, Graceland is approachable and fan-friendly.
Tour guides
At Graceland, you are given an iPad featuring a guided tour narrated by actor John Stamos. You're free to spend as much time as you want in each and every room. You can revisit, linger, replay the iPad.