Twin Cities bars offer updates on aquavit, bringing this traditional liquor into trend territory

Yes, it's part of Minnesota's drinking fabric, but that doesn't mean aquavit is universally beloved.

"It seems like everyone has memories of Christmas dinners at the grandparents' house, sitting around and drinking it," said Jesse Held, the bar director for Jester Concepts' restaurants, including Monello in Minneapolis. "It was terrible! I think most of those grandkids that are now adults didn't like it then and don't like it now."

Oh, but things have changed, as Held will be the first to say.

Better-quality, artisanal versions of the liquor — a light-colored, caraway-forward spirit with plenty of complexity — have hit the market in recent years. Bartenders and drinkers, always looking for the next wave, have jumped on board. Now the Nordic spirit, traditionally imbibed around the holidays, has shaken off its old-fashioned reputation and been transformed into one of the season's trendiest sippers — showing up in cocktail bars and fad magazines around the country.

And guess what? Minnesota still might do it best. Just like grandpa always knew.

"It's not a secret anymore," Held said. "It gets used throughout the country, but we're seeing a larger presence in Minnesota and that's because of our heritage." Sample these cocktails made with aquavit: