Every weekday morning, a line of several dozen forlorn people forms outside the dingy headquarters of SAIME, Venezuela's passport agency. As shortages and violence have made life in the country less bearable, more people are applying for passports so they can go somewhere else. Most will be turned away.
The government ran out of plastic for laminating new passports in September.
"I've just been told I might need to wait eight months!" says Martín, a frustrated applicant. A $250 bribe would shorten the wait.
As desperation rises, so does the intransigence of Venezuela's "Bolivarian" regime, whose policies have ruined the economy and sabotaged democracy. The economy shrank by 18.6 percent last year, according to an estimate by the central bank, leaked this month to Reuters. Inflation was 800 percent.
These are provisional figures, subject to revision. They may never be published (the central bank stopped reporting complete economic data more than a year ago). The inflation estimate is close to that of the IMF, which expects consumer prices to rise by 2,200 percent this year. The Economist Intelligence Unit, a sister company of the Economist, puts last year's economic contraction at 13.7 percent. That is still much sharper than the decline in Greece's output at the height of the euro crisis. In 2001, Venezuela was the richest country in South America; it is now among the poorest.
Venezuela's salsa-loving president, Nicolas Maduro, has responded to bad news with bluster (he blames foreign and domestic "mafias") and denial. Soon after the leak of the central bank's estimates he fired its president, Nelson Merentes. Maduro may have held him responsible for the leak. Or he may have punished him for a botched attempt by the government in December to introduce new bank notes.
A currency swap makes sense. The 100-bolívar note, long the highest denomination, is worth less than 3 cents on the black market. Shopkeepers sometimes weigh them instead of counting them. They are to be replaced with a new set of notes worth up to 20,000 bolívares.
The government's stated reason for making the switch — to punish hoarders — made no sense. Who would store up the world's fastest depreciating currency? Its execution was tragicomic. After Venezuelans had lined up for days to return to banks bills about to lose their value (sometimes in exchange for notes with even smaller denominations) the replacements failed to show up. Chaos ensued as Venezuelans returned to the banks to withdraw 100-bolívar notes. Their demonetization is now scheduled for Feb. 20.