The engine gives a throaty hum, a little warm-up as instructor Tom Amlie asks our daughter Kylie if she's ready. Strapped into water skis and holding onto a chest-high boom off the side of the boat, she grins and nods.
The motor guns, and she's off, skimming the surface of Brainerd's Gull Lake. Within 20 minutes, she advances from her practice boom to a tow rope and navigates the wake and waves like a water bug. Effortless. Happy. Focused.
We watch, stunned at how easy she makes it look. When she finally does stumble and wipe out, she bobs up, grinning.
"Can I do it again?" she yells.
It's the kind of first-time summer experience that vacationers at this lake have had for generations. Some have their own boats, cabins and lake lots.
For the rest of us, venerable resorts such as Madden's and Cragun's fill in the blanks, providing equipment, coaching, accommodations and a big, reliable place to play. Last summer's megastorm hit both of them hard, uprooting hundreds of trees, damaging buildings and forcing both to close temporarily, but it was a blip in their long histories that stretch back more than 75 years.
Cragun's resort, with its aqua alpine accents on dark-brown exteriors, hugs the Steamboat Bay shoreline and keeps humming along year-round. Seasonal Madden's spent the winter months completely rebuilding the Voyageur complex with 36 new units, and reconstructing Wilson Bay Lodge with 49 guest rooms and special event space.
With the capacity to accommodate up to 1,000 guests at Cragun's and 600 at Madden's, the resorts line the shore with an assortment of historic and modern hotel rooms, townhouses and cabins. Boats and water toys dot the beaches, where sunscreen-sticky, sand-gritty kids reluctantly agree to clean up and go to dinner.