Many of my summer memories are intertwined with strawberries.
I recall June mornings finding wild berries tucked under the daisies along a dusty path on a family vacation in Vermont. Grade school's strawberry festivals, with soggy bowls of berries and ice cream in the hot, hot parking lot. My grandmother's crumbly, salty biscuits, left from an earlier dinner, piled high with whipped cream and fruit just picked on the way to her home on the Jersey Shore.
And now, strawberry season is here at last.
The quintessential taste of summer, exactly when strawberries appear is less predictable than a summer rain. But one thing is certain: Our locally grown berries are the very best. Tiny, delicate and intensely tart-sweet, this dark ruby fruit is decidedly different from the big red orbs flown in from California. This year's crop is even tastier than ever, given our long spell of blazing sun and plenty of heat. While the dry, hot growing conditions may not be great for farmers and pickers, these factors do influence the way the fruit tastes. Less moisture in the fields yields berries with concentrated flavors and firmer textures, perfect for dousing with cream or tossing into a crisp green salad.
As far as we know, the first wild strawberries were harvested for medicines prescribed in ancient Roman literature. The whole plant was brewed to treat depressive illnesses. The French brought strawberries into their gardens and kitchens in the late 1300s. From there, they flourished throughout Europe and made their way to our region as seeds in the pockets of German settlers.
While wild strawberries are perennials, returning year after year, most farmers plant a new crop early in the spring. June strawberry varieties produce fruit for a short three weeks. Day-neutral varieties — which refers to a plant's light sensitivity — will flower and fruit all summer long. Thanks to the University of Minnesota's robust seed breeding program, we'll see more of these berries in our farmers markets and co-ops in the sunny days to come.
Local berries are grown for flavor, not to travel or spend weeks in storage. It's best to devour them as quickly as you can (right out of the field or in the box on the way home from the farmers market is perfectly acceptable). To store, transfer strawberries to a flat plate or baking sheet lined with parchment or wax paper and put them in the refrigerator. Do not remove the caps or rinse them until you're ready to use them; the cap protects them from moisture and damage.
And do not toss out those tops! They are packed with sweet berry flavor. Use them to infuse vinegar, kombucha or vodka. Simply pack the tops into a glass jar with a lid and add enough liquid to cover. Screw on the top and allow the jar to sit a day or two, strain the liquid, discard the tops and enjoy. You might also blend those tops into smoothies (as you would spinach or kale) for a superfood boost.