3 people who changed the Twin Cities dining scene in 2019

These three ambitious and talented chefs and restaurateurs are making a difference for diners.

December 19, 2019 at 10:41PM
Justin Sutherland of Chickpea and Obachan Noodles & Chicken
Former “Top Chef” contestant Justin Sutherland is now at the helm of Chickpea and Obachan Noodles & Chicken. (The Minnesota Star Tribune)

Rising star chef of the year: Justin Sutherland

Suddenly, it seemed as if Justin Sutherland was everywhere. There was the Apple Valley native, climbing up the pressure-cooked ranks on Bravo's "Top Chef" (yes, he was robbed during a mentor challenge, when he cooked for former boss J.D. Fratzke, now at Falls Landing in Cannon Falls, Minn.) while personifying all the genuinely nice aspects of Minnesota Nice, coordinating the food-and-drink offerings at St. Paul's dazzling new Allianz Field soccer stadium, taking the helm as managing partner at the Madison Restaurant Group (Handsome Hog, Gray Duck Tavern and five other St. Paul properties) and quickly remaking several of the company's restaurants (including transforming Fitzgerald's into the Fitz pizzeria), and then opening a pair of counters — Chickpea and Obachan Noodles & Chicken— at Rosedale's Potluck food hall. His ambitions aren't stopping there. For starters, Sutherland is reviving his Pearl and the Thief, moving it from Stillwater to downtown Minneapolis, and inserting a branch of Chickpea in St. Paul's Keg and Case Market.

Maverick of the year:  Ann Ahmed

After a decade of ownership of a well-regarded Thai restaurant in Brooklyn Park, chef Ann Ahmed busted a breakout move, taking a deep dive into her Laotian heritage and love of Southeast Asian flavors. It was a gamble that paid off, big time. Her transformation of a former Perkins outlet in Golden Valley into the welcoming, stylish and appealing Lat14 proves all kinds of truisms: Ahmed, a talent to watch, has all the right instincts and audacity for her challenging industry, and she and her crew are delivering an exciting, highly polished experience that's countering the outdated notion that "suburban dining" is equivalent with "boring."

Titan of the year: Hector Ruiz

A busy schedule is the norm for Hector Ruiz; that's what happens when a chef owns and operates multiple restaurants. But 2019 really stands out because the hardworking Ruiz built (literally, the man not only cooks, he's good with power tools) his fifth Minneapolis restaurant, adding to a portfolio of spirited, small-scaled neighborhood gems that includes Cafe Ena, La Fresca, Rincón 38 and Costa Blanca Bistro. Ruiz created his latest in a sliver of a spot at 50th and Xerxes in south Minneapolis, christening it Don Raúl, an affectionate nod to his grandfather. What a career: Ruiz is all about merging his Parisian training with the flavors and traditions of his parents' native Mexico, an equation that impresses his work into the hearts, minds and taste buds of an ever-growing number of Minnesotans.

Ann Ahmed is the Lat14 chef/owner of her great-looking restaurant. The name is inspired by the geographical latitude of the cuisine of Southeast Asia at that latitude.]RICHARD TSONG-TAATARII ¥ richard.tsong-taatarii@startribune.com
Ann Ahmed is the chef-ower of Lat14, a name inspired by the latitude of Southeast Asia. (The Minnesota Star Tribune)
Chef Hector Ruiz prepares food in the kitchen at Costa Blanca Bistro. ] (Leila Navidi/Star Tribune) leila.navidi@startribune.com BACKGROUND INFORMATION: Food review of Costa Blanca Bistro in Minneapolis on Thursday, October 13, 2016.
In 2019, chef Hector Ruiz added a fifth Minneapolis restaurant to his portfolio. (The Minnesota Star Tribune)

about the writer

Rick Nelson

Reporter

Rick Nelson joined the staff of the Star Tribune in 1998. He is a Twin Cities native, a University of Minnesota graduate and a James Beard Award winner. 

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