A new view for Totino's restaurant

Last February, for the first time in decades, there was no anniversary celebration at Totino's Italian Kitchen in northeast Minneapolis.

There was no Totino's Italian Kitchen in February, period. The iconic Italian restaurant closed last fall after nearly 57 years on Central Avenue, its building slated for future redevelopment and its owner eyeing a future in the 'burbs.

Today, after roughly three months of work, Totino's reopens on County Road 10 in Mounds View with a new look and a slightly expanded menu, but also with some familiar touches that will remind loyal old-timers of its origins.

Gone are the staple reds and greens representing the restaurant's classic southern Italian past, replaced by more contemporary earthy tones and a bar and pub area with TVs.

But that large oil painting of Venice? And the big booth that dominated the old place for at least the last 40 years? They made the trip north, along with photos and newspaper and magazine clippings documenting the restaurant's history.

Opening the new Totino's meant maintaining a tricky balance of respect for "old school" elements and "turning the page a little bit to create our own identity," said Steve Elwell, who owns the restaurant and is a grandson of founders Jim and Rose Totino.

The menu is largely the same, with an expanded kids menu and more appetizers. The new place is about half the size of the old one and seats a maximum of 96 instead of 140, he said.

Joanne said she has mixed feelings about the new restaurant. She started working at the old Totino's when she was a teenager and remembers her parents going to the bank for the $1,500 loan that helped finance the original -- with a 1951 Cadillac as collateral.

"The day we closed was hard," Joanne said. "We'd seen a lot of people, generations of family over the years. But on the other hand, we're starting a new beginning. And that's exciting for Steve. It's a new life for our family. And we just felt really strong about carrying on the legacy of Mom and Dad."

That legacy began in 1951, with Jim and Rose starting their days at 6 a.m. and not ending until 1 or 2 a.m. the following morning, Joanne said.

In 1979, Rose patented the Crisp Crust for frozen pizza, having made millions by selling Totino's Finer Foods to Pillsbury and serving as the company's first female vice president.

Rose and Jim lived in northeast Minneapolis until Jim died in 1981. A couple of years later -- following a migration pattern similar to a lot of former northeasters -- Rose moved north to Fridley.

Elwell said Mounds View and the restaurant's new neighbors have been welcoming and curious. "At least 15 to 20" people per day have dropped by in recent weeks to check on the restaurant's progress, he said last week.

"It was nice [in Minneapolis] and I liked it. It served its purpose for the 20 years I was there," he said. "But I've always wanted to take our food out to the 'burbs and see what we could do."

And that February anniversary party?

"Next year, no doubt about it, we will do it," he said.

Eric M. Hanson • 612-673-7517