LHOKNGA, Indonesia — Qurrata Ayuni, a 28-year-old survivor of the earthquake and tsunami that devastated her hometown two decades ago, has transformed her resilience into purpose. Defying Aceh's male-dominated coffee culture, she runs a café that serves as a welcoming space for everyone, especially women, by employing and empowering them in the region worst hit by the tragedy.
On Dec. 26, 2004, a powerful 9.1-magnitude earthquake, off the coast of the Indonesian island of Sumatra, triggered a tsunami that killed around 230,000 people across a dozen countries, reaching as far as East Africa. Some 160,000 of those were in Aceh, at the northwestern tip of Indonesia.
Ayuni survived the tsunami by chance, staying at her aunt's house in Banda Aceh instead of her family home in Lampuuk, Aceh Besar district. However, the disaster shattered her childhood, claiming the lives of her parents and younger sister, who was only 6 when their home was hit by the giant waves.
Infrastructure in Aceh has been rebuilt and is now stronger than before the tsunami. Early warning systems have been set up in areas closer to shores, to warn residents of a potential tsunami.
About 14 kilometers (9 miles) from Ayuni's coffee shop, in a public high school in Lhoknga, students regularly take part in disaster simulations, especially when there is a warning of an earthquake, and get ready to evacuate ahead of a possible tsunami.
They hide under the table and chant dhikr (the Islamic prayer) ''la ilaha illallah,'' which means ''there's no God but Allah,'' while waiting for the next direction to move from their classroom to the designated assembly point which is on the field at the front of the school.
The school has a devastating history. Situated about one kilometer (half a mile) from the shore, it was totally destroyed and flattened to the ground like other buildings. This school was one of over 1,400 that were wrecked by the tsunami, according to a report by the Disaster Mitigation Research Center at Syiah Kuala University in Aceh, published in 2019.
Some of the teachers are survivors of that disaster. They were only teenagers when they saw the giant waves, some as high as coconut trees.