Also in the Soo Line: Cafe Zentral and Foreign Legion

Russell and Desta Klein are keeping busy elsewhere in the Soo Line.

When food-truck season reaches its inevitable conclusion, all of those diners will be headed back to the skyway, where they'll be pleased to discover a first: a counter-service restaurant operated by a four-star chef.

Limited kitchen facilities at Cafe Zentral means that the breakfast-and-lunch outfit doesn't stray too far, menu-wise, from its food-truck competition, but how many mobile operations also have Russell Klein in their back pocket?

Mornings are all about a smattering of lovingly prepared baked goods (the scones and muffins set skyway standards), fresh-squeezed orange juice, premium coffee and a pair of breakfast-mode panini sandwiches.

At lunch, the offerings expand, with marvelous grilled cheese sandwiches, superb sweet and savory crêpes, a few salads and a handful of fantastic, full-flavored sausages baked inside chewy pretzel rolls and served with a long list of well-rendered condiments.

Prices navigate toward the upper echelons of the skyway economy, but pay off in terms of quality and originality. There's a small amount of counter seating; service couldn't be more accommodating, and I challenge you to leave the premises without a chocolate-dipped coconut macaroon.

Cafe Zentral, 505 Marquette Av., Mpls., 612-520-7686, www.zentral-mpls.com/cafe, open 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. weekdays.

This cozy refuge of a wine bar is notable for its dozen or so ever-changing cheeses, sold in a number of permutations ($5.50 to $20) from single serving to platter and always well-dressed, traits carried over to the fine array of cured meats ($7 to $24).

The main event is a half-dozen beyond-buttery grilled cheese sandwiches ($5-$8), beautifully built on house-baked brioche and running the gamut from straight-up American to firm Appenzeller paired with an herb-scented Italian ham. Add a bowl of the divine tomato soup ($5), each restorative spoonful gently perfumed with lemon grass.

In keeping with the room's hang-out-and-nosh vibe, there are a dozen or so skillfully rendered snacks ($5 to $9), including a zesty eggplant spread and pristine sardine rillettes.

And while Russell Klein isn't a fondue fan, he's all over raclette ($12), adhering to tradition by blanketing pickled pearled onions, dainty steamed potatoes and cornichons with shavings of the melty, gooey, cow's milk cheese (also called raclette) after it's warmed on an iron. For added bliss, try the option with some of that fine Italian ham ($18).

In their speakeasy-esque surroundings — think F. Scott Fitzgerald's man cave — the bar's mixmasters keep busy with a long list of labor-intensive cocktails.

Foreign Legion, 505 Marquette Av., Mpls., 612-333-0505, www.foreignlegion-mpls.com, open 5 to 11 p.m. Mon., 4 to 10 p.m. Tue.-Sat., 5 to 9 p.m. Sun.

RICK NELSON