Minneapolis nonprofit Appetite for Change shares soulful recipes in new cookbook

In this age of celebrity chefs and Instagram posts, a community cookbook may seem like an anachronism. But Appetite for Change, a small but mighty nonprofit in north Minneapolis, is a community using food to drive health, wealth and social change. What better way to share their mission?

Like so many urban enclaves, north Minneapolis has been dealing with rising poverty, unemployment and violence. In 2011, after a tornado leveled many homes and businesses, many of the neighborhood’s independent grocers and restaurants were shuttered or moved, giving way to fast-food joints and corner stores.

That same year, three fierce advocates for food justice — Michelle Horovitz, Tasha Powell and Princess Titus — gathered friends and neighbors and literally began cooking up change. The “founding mothers” met in church kitchens to prepare, cook and share nourishing dishes and host conversations. They guided the community to create Appetite for Change, a social enterprise, to drive impactful food-focused programs.

There are youth who work in gardens, cook together and create together, including the viral video “Grow Food!” There’s the Community Cooks program, offering cooking workshops, and Breaking Bread Cafe came along in 2015, pivoting during the pandemic to assist with prepared meals and meal kits for neighborhood families, something it still does today.

Five years ago, I began working with Horovitz, Powell and Titus to gather recipes and stories from AFC’s transformative programs. The result is “Appetite for Change: Soulful Recipes From a North Minneapolis Kitchen.”

The book shares the stories, recipes and kitchen tips gathered from the entire AFC community: founders, chefs, neighbors, volunteers, activists and youth. It shows how good food strengthens relationships and builds more resilient neighborhoods. You’ll find a range of recipes, from traditional Jerk Shrimp and Cheese Grits, Hoppin John, Banana Pudding (with a few new twists) and plant-forward favorites such as Purple Rain Salad, Jackfruit Nachos, Quinoa Black Bean Burger, and Black Bean Brownies.

All will inspire you to grab your favorite cooking companions and, as the “Grow Food” video reminds us, “chop, chop, chop, it up!” in the kitchen.

Serves 6 to 8.

This bright, pretty salad is a tribute to Prince, the North Side’s hometown hero. Created by Appetite for Change youth with chef Lachelle Cunningham, it was first served at Target Field during Minnesota Twins games through the organization’s Roots for the Home Team initiative. You may have some leftover dressing; store it in a covered jar in the refrigerator. It will keep for about three days.

For the dressing:

• 1/2 c. extra-virgin olive oil

• 1/3 c. pomegranate juice

• 1/4 c. fresh or frozen raspberries

• 2 tbsp. white wine vinegar

• 1 tsp. finely chopped ginger root

• 1/2 tsp. salt

For the salad:

• 1 c. shredded red cabbage

• 1/4 c. unpeeled purple daikon radish, cut into wedges

• 1/2 c. shredded carrots

• 1 c. halved grapes

• 1/2 c. blueberries

• 1/3 c. finely chopped onion

• 1 c. cooked brown rice (see directions below)

• 6 c. mixed salad greens

• 1 c. finely shredded raw peeled red beets

Directions

To make the dressing: In a blender, process together the oil, pomegranate juice, raspberries, vinegar, ginger and salt until smooth.

To make the salad: In a large, wide bowl, arrange all of the individual components. Drizzle liberally with the dressing. Alternatively, toss the cabbage, daikon, carrots, grapes, blueberries, onions and rice with the dressing to coat. Arrange the salad greens on individual plates or a large serving platter. Pile the tossed salad over the greens, drizzle with a little more dressing, then garnish with the shredded beets.

To cook brown rice: Put 1/2 cup brown rice and about 4 cups water into a saucepan with a generous pinch of salt. Set over high heat, bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer, covered, until the rice is tender, about 40 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow the rice to stand, covered, for about 8 minutes. Drain off any excess water.

Serves 4 to 6.

Back in 2011, the AFC youth did an audit of food venues along W. Broadway in Minneapolis. They counted 36 restaurants and corner stores; none offered anything fresh, and none had a place to sit down and provide a meal. After deciding to gather people for breakfast, they needed to find out what might be most popular. This iconic Low Country dish is a community favorite.

• 1 lb. shrimp, peeled and deveined

• 1 to 2 tbsp. jerk seasoning

• 3 c. chicken broth

• 1/2 tsp. salt

• 1/8 tsp. pepper

• 1/8 tsp. garlic powder

• 1 c. regular grits

• 8 oz. cheddar cheese, cubed

• 1/4 c. milk

• Salt and pepper, to taste

• 1 to 2 tbsp. vegetable oil

• Grated sharp white cheddar cheese, optional

Directions

Generously season the shrimp with the jerk seasoning and set aside.

In a medium saucepan set over medium-high heat, bring the broth, salt, pepper and garlic powder to a boil. Slowly whisk in the grits until completely combined. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the grits are thick, about 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in the cubed cheddar and milk. Continue simmering 15 to 20 minutes until the grits taste cooked. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Film a large skillet with the oil and set over high heat. Sear the shrimp until they begin to turn pink on each side, about 2 minutes per side.

Ladle the grits into individual bowls, then arrange the shrimp on top of the grits and garnish with shredded cheese, if desired.

Serves 4 to 6.

Here’s an old-fashioned favorite updated with browned butter and toasted oats to bump up the toppings’ rich, nutty taste. Vary the fruit to suit the season for a homey, high-impact dessert that’s best served with mounds of whipped cream. A tip: Appetite for Change board member and cooking instructor Harvey Rupert says making the perfect crisp is about having the right balance of fruit to crust or crumble which should be about 3 to 1. In other words, use a baking dish that isn’t too deep, as each bite should have some crust or crumble.

• 1/3 c. unsalted butter

• 3/4 c. all-purpose flour

• 1/4 c. maple sugar or light brown sugar

• 1/4 c. chopped pecans

• 1/4 c. toasted rolled oats (see directions)

• Pinch salt

• 2 pints mixed berries (blueberries, raspberries, strawberries, etc.)

Directions

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Melt the butter in a small skillet set over medium heat, then cook, stirring occasionally, until the milk solids turn a toasty brown, about 1 to 3 minutes. Remove from the stove and transfer to a medium bowl.

Stir in the flour, sugar, pecans, toasted oats and salt and stir until clumps form, using your fingers as necessary.

Turn the berries into an 8- or 9-inch baking dish and scatter the oat mixture evenly over the top. Bake until the topping is golden and the fruit’s juices are bubbling, about 45 to 50 minutes. Serve warm.

To toast the oats: Spread the oats out onto a baking sheet and roast in a 350-degree oven, stirring occasionally, until they smell nutty and toasty, about 8 to 10 minutes.

Celebrate the book launch — and the organization — at this free event.

When: July 25, 5-7 p.m.

Where: Capri Theater, 2027 W. Broadway, Mpls.

Cost: Free, but RSVP at giving@afcmn.org.

Buy it: Published by University of Minnesota Press ($22.95), the book is available from the publisher or direct from Appetite for Change, appetiteforchangemn.org/cookbook.

Beth Dooley is the author of “The Perennial Kitchen.” Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com.