Ask the critic: A tropical Twin Cities spot, gluten-free desserts, skyway dining deals and more

Rick Nelson is here to answer any and all dining-related questions.

March 10, 2019 at 2:17PM
Ruchika Singhal, center, and Kannan Kase enjoyed cocktails and salt-and-pepper fried tofu at Hai Hai's bar
Ruchika Singhal, center, and Kannan Kase enjoyed cocktails and salt-and-pepper fried tofu at Hai Hai’s bar (Star Tribune/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

Q: Where can I go to eat that makes me feel like I'm not here, but on vacation somewhere that's exotic, warm and sunny?

A: Two words: Hai Hai (2121 University Av. NE., Mpls., 612-223-8640, haihaimpls.com). For starters, co-owners Christina Nguyen and Birk Grudem fill the smile-inducing space with mementos from their extensive Southeast Asian travels, which sets an appropriate mood. Grudem turns to sugar cane to forge a list of refreshing cocktails, and in the kitchen Nguyen piles on big, bold flavors and colors that transport diners to the couple's favorite street-food stalls in Vietnam, Thailand and Bali. Service is spot-on, and the weekend brunch is a blast.

Q: I work in downtown Minneapolis. Where can I go on the skyway for a good lunch deal?

A: My tips are time- and date-related. From 1 to 2 p.m. at the terrific Bep Eatery (100 S. 5th St., Mpls., 612-338-5189 and 800 LaSalle Av., Mpls., 612-338-2000, bepeatery.com), the design-your-own spring rolls (chicken, shrimp, pork, tofu, steak) are just $2. Tuesday is deal day at friendly La Loma (608 2nd Av. S., Mpls., 612-354-2379, laloma.com), because that's when all of the made-by-hand tamales (chicken, pork, sweet corn and others) are half-price. And you might want to check out the daily specials at Valentino Cafe (900 2nd Av. S., Mpls., 612-338-7434), which range from Monday's three tacos with a side dish and a drink for $6.99 to Friday's burrito/side dish/drink combo for $7.99.

Q: What happened to Randle's Restaurant & Bar?

A: Like its short-lived predecessor, Ling & Louie's (921 Nicollet Mall, Mpls.), it didn't last long. Owner Michael McDermott is converting the property — which has one of downtown's better rooftop patios — to his third outlet of Rojo Mexican Grill (rojomexicangrill.com).

Q: Did Mon Petit Chéri close? I miss their ham-Gruyère rolls.

A: That makes two of us. The bakery/cafe (mpcbakery.com) did indeed close its Minneapolis location at 2401 E. Franklin Av., but the good news is that a beauty of a new home is currently under construction at 310 Main St. S. in Stillwater.

Q: Do you have any kids-eat-free ideas?

A: At the Sunshine Factory Bar & Grill (4100 Vinewood Lane N., Plymouth, 763-535-7000, esunshinefactory.com), Sunday dinner (that's after 4 p.m.) means that the purchase of a full-price adult entree includes a free kid's (10-and-under) meal. All-day Sunday at D'Amico & Sons (damicoandsons.com) is also a kids-eat-free situation; the purchase of an adult meal includes a free kid's meal for ages 10 and under. Partake at the chain's Edina, Golden Valley, Roseville and Wayzata locations. On Wednesday after 4 p.m., kids under age 12 eat free at Patrick's Bakery & Cafe (12489 Elm Creek Blvd., Maple Grove, 763-420-7770, patricksbakerycafe.com) with the purchase of an adult entree.

Q: Can you give me a few east metro dining suggestions?

A: Here are two. You should check out Manger (320 5th Av. N., Bayport, 651-924-9313, mangerrestaurant.com), which has reactivated the former (and charmingly cozy) Cafe L'Etoile du Nord. Chef/co-owner Mike Willenbring is serving lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday, pulling pizzas out of the kitchen's wood-burning oven and focusing on dishes along the lines of double-cut lamb chops, steak tartare, beef short ribs with a parsnip purée, French onion soup and a small selection of fresh oysters. And I've always been a fan of Tongue in Cheek (989 Payne Av., St. Paul, 651-888-6148, tongueincheek.biz), where chef/co-owner Leonard Anderson's playful cooking swings from amusing (and delicious) $3 "teasers" to a $70, five-course tasting menu (it's $65 for the herbivore version). Anderson makes room for vegans, and serves a lively lunch/brunch hybrid menu Tuesday through Sunday.

Q: Where can I find a gluten-free dessert that isn't a meringue or a macaron?

A: You need to know about the House of Halva (928 W. 7th St., St. Paul, 651-410-7483). Owners Liz and David Kadosh place the sesame-driven Middle Eastern sweet on a pedestal, offering it in flurry of flavors, from a cherry-cranberry take on the classic Black Forest format to pistachio, coconut, whiskey-chocolate and apple-cinnamon variations, sold by the (hefty) slice. It's one of my favorite parts of the Keg and Case Market food hall. Closed Saturday.

Q: Do you have any Friday fish-fry suggestions?

A: A favorite of mine is at Red Cow (3624 W. 50th St., Mpls., 612-767-4411; 393 Selby Av., St. Paul, 651-651-789-0545; 208 1st Av. N., Mpls., 612-238-0050; and 2626 Hennepin Av. S., Mpls., 612-767-3547, redcownmn.com), where $15 buys all-you-can-eat beer-battered wild Alaskan cod and hand-cut fries. It's available all day, daily, through late April.

Q: What's the most delicious thing you've tasted lately?

A: Where to start? I was bowled over by the simple appeal of the corn elote at Colita (5400 Penn Av. S., Mpls., 612-886-1606, colitampls.com), where chef Daniel del Prado makes it easy for his guests by cutting the kernels off the cob and then blending it with a slow-burn chipotle-fueled mayonnaise and a blast of a chile pepper-lime condiment; it doesn't do it credit to describe it as a Minnesota-meets-Mexico sweet-corn hot dish, but that's exactly what it is, in a good way. I wasn't expecting to encounter pork schnitzel at P.S. Steak (510 Groveland Av., Mpls., 612-886-1620, psmpls.com), chef Mike DeCamp's steakhouse remake of the former La Belle Vie, but his spot-on iteration was a thrill to behold. And I can't wait to go back to Lat 14 (8815 7th Av. N., Golden Valley, 763-400-7910, lat14.com) for another crack at chef/owner Ann Ahmed's perfect-for-winter take on chicken thighs with eggplant and mushrooms.

Send your queries to rick.nelson@startribune.com.

about the writer

about the writer

Rick Nelson

Reporter

Rick Nelson joined the staff of the Star Tribune in 1998. He is a Twin Cities native, a University of Minnesota graduate and a James Beard Award winner. 

See Moreicon

More from No Section

See More
FILE -- A rent deposit slot at an apartment complex in Tucker, Ga., on July 21, 2020. As an eviction crisis has seemed increasingly likely this summer, everyone in the housing market has made the same plea to Washington: Send money — lots of it — that would keep renters in their homes and landlords afloat. (Melissa Golden/The New York Times) ORG XMIT: XNYT58
Melissa Golden/The New York Times

It’s too soon to tell how much the immigration crackdown is to blame.