For decades, Julia Child’s kitchen in Cambridge, Mass., served as her headquarters: a place to cook and to develop recipes, of course, but also where she filmed three of her now classic cooking shows.
The chef, cookbook author and ebullient television personality, who died in 2004, made it her life’s mission to help people become comfortable with — and even savor — cooking. (The modern day Instagram influencers who film from their kitchen owe a debt of gratitude to this pioneer of the genre.) As you’d expect of any culinary mastermind, Julia and her husband, Paul, were intentional about how best to set up the all-important space when they moved to the home in 1961.
“They wanted to really make sure that it reflected the way she cooked, the way they lived,” says Paula J. Johnson, curator of food history at the Smithsonian National Museum of American History. “I mean, she practically lived in the kitchen. So it had to be comfortable. It had to be functional. … It is a serious working space, obviously, but it’s deceptive because it feels so homey.”
Johnson knows a thing or two about the hows and whys of Julia’s kitchen. She was one of the people who called Julia in 2001, when she heard the famous home cook was decamping for California, to inquire about the plans for the kitchen. Julia agreed to donate it to the Smithsonian. Johnson helped direct the massive undertaking of documenting the more than 1,200 tools and objects, transporting them to D.C. and then reassembling the entire room exactly as it was in Cambridge.
Since the opening of the exhibit in 2002, which Julia attended, the museum estimates that millions of visitors have seen the kitchen. These days, it’s prominently displayed on the first floor, and guests can walk all the way around it, peering into the room from every vantage point. With the October publication of her new book “Julia Child’s Kitchen: The Design, Tools, Stories, and Legacy of an Iconic Space,” Johnson is giving readers even more insight into the kitchen and the many items it holds.
I recently had the chance to walk around the seminal space with Johnson, and she shared what she learned about the kitchen — and how people can incorporate Julia’s design philosophies into their own hearths.
Embrace the kitchen as entertaining space
It is a truth universally acknowledged that, at home gatherings, people tend to cluster in the kitchen. This fact predates Julia, but she ensured that her space could easily accommodate this very human inclination. In fact, she wanted her guests to feel comfortable and invited there.
It wasn’t all for the benefit of the guests, though. “I want the dining table in the middle of the room just because, like a sheepdog, I need to be right there in the midst of everyone,” Julia said, per Johnson’s book.