NEW YORK - It was Isaac Becker's night at Monday's James Beard Foundation Awards in New York City. On his fourth consecutive nomination, the Oscars of the food world annointed the 112 Eatery and Bar La Grassa chef/co-owner as 2011's Best Chef: Midwest.
In an evening of rambling acceptance speeches, Becker's stood out for its Midwestern brevity and modesty. He escorted his beaming wife and business partner, Nancy St. Pierre, up to the podium with him, and immediately thanked her for "always telling me if things are good or bad."
Brief shout-outs to his parents and kids followed, chased by nods to "the guys" back at their Minneapolis restaurants and to Jay Sparks, the D'Amico & Partners chef who served as Becker's longtime mentor. Then Becker looked out at the black-tie crowd and said, "And that'll wrap it up. Thanks."
Later -- seriously, much later, as it was a typically lengthy program -- Becker was catching all kinds of congratulatory wishes from the mobs thronging the lobbies of Lincoln Center's Avery Fisher Hall. It was easy to spot him. He was the guy with the yellow ribbon around his neck and the ear-to-ear grin on his face.
"I'm just so happy," he said. "It's the third-happiest day of my life, after the births of my two kids."
St. Pierre noted that, when they called home to share the good news, their son asked if he could wear the gold medallion. No chance, said Becker. "I'll be wearing it to bed," he said with a laugh.
Along with Becker's fellow nominee, Lenny Russo of Heartland Restaurant & Farm Direct Market in St. Paul, the 21st-annual awards gala sported other Minnesota connections.
Sameh Wadi, chef/co-owner of Saffron Restaurant & Lounge in Minneapolis, was one of 25 top chefs from around the country selected to cook for the gala's 2,000-plus attendees. He prepared a lamb shoulder carpaccio wrapped around bulgur and preserved lemons and garnished with radishes, pine nut yogurt and mint. It was a wowser, a standout in a room of culinary standouts.
