Cafe Levain closes, Pilgrimage closing

Two Turtle Bread Co.-affiliated restaurants have closed, and a third south Minneapolis restaurant is shutting down this weekend.

July 29, 2016 at 1:14AM
TOM WALLACE � twallace@startribune.com Assign# 00006737A slug_rn0219 Date: Feb 8, 2009 Caf� Levain on 48th and Chicago. The chef team from left is Cook Alan Hlebaen, Sous Chef Remle Colestock and Chef Adam Vickerman, at the door on a Sunday night.___Sunday Night dinners around the Twin Cities That bring taste and price to a place, it make Sunday night dining a pleasure. Three restaurants are photographed.
The chef team at Cafe Levain on 48th and Chicago in 2009: From left, Cook Alan Hlebaen, Sous Chef Remle Colestock and Chef Adam Vickerman. (Star Tribune/The Minnesota Star Tribune)
(The Minnesota Star Tribune)

It has been a tough week for neighborhood restaurants in south Minneapolis.

On Monday, Trattoria Tosca, the Italian restaurant affiliated with the Linden Hills outlet of the Turtle Bread Co., closed its doors.

Today, Turtle Bread owner Harvey McLain pulled the plug on his other full service operation, Cafe Levain (pictured, above, in a 2007 Star Tribune file photo), part of the Turtle's 48th-and-Chicago outlet.

"Regrettably, we have closed Cafe Levain after 14 good years in the Nokomis neighborhood," reads the message on the restaurant's website. "We do not anticipate that it will reopen. Thank you for you patronage. Sorry for any inconvenience. If you have gift certificates, they can be redeemed for food, merchandise or cash at any of the three Turtle Breads."

(The Minnesota Star Tribune)

Levain holds a special place in the city's recent culinary history. When it opened in 2003, under the direction of chef Stewart Woodman, the restaurant received four stars from the Star Tribune (that's the restaurant, above, during the Woodman era, in a 2003 Star Tribune file photo).

(The Minnesota Star Tribune)

A year later, chef Steven Brown replaced Woodman, and the restaurant received an unprecedented second four-star Star Tribune review (that's Brown, above, in a 2004 Star Tribune file photo).

Brown's era ended three years later, when McLain decided to reboot, steering the restaurant from a fine-dining destination to a neighborhood bistro."I'm thinking of calling it, `Peasant Food Only,' " he told the Star Tribune at the time.

(The Minnesota Star Tribune)

Instead, he called it Cafe Levain and installed 22-year-old chef Adam Vickerman (above, far right, in a 2009 Star Tribune file photo) in the kitchen. Vickerman earned a loyal following, and ran the restaurant until last year, leaving to join the Seward Co-op.

Since bad news frequently reveals itself in threes, here's the third: Pilgrimage Cafe chef/owner Craig Ball is calling it quits, and soon.

"Pilgrimage will be permanently closing by the end of this weekend," reads the message on the restaurant's Facebook page. "We would like to thank everyone for supporting us over the last two years, we've truly enjoyed it. But before that happens, we have some food and wine to clear out. Come help us!"

about the writer

about the writer

Rick Nelson

Reporter

Rick Nelson joined the staff of the Star Tribune in 1998. He is a Twin Cities native, a University of Minnesota graduate and a James Beard Award winner. 

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