It all comes down to comfort food.
That's one of the many epiphanies that Raghavan Iyer has made during his treatment for colorectal cancer, and that realization has sparked the creation of his latest effort, the Revival Foods Project: Global Comforts That Heal.
Three years ago, the Minneapolis cookbook author — he's the authority behind "660 Curries," "The Turmeric Trail," "Betty Crocker's Indian Home Cooking" and other notable titles — was in the hospital, recovering from major surgery. After 12 days, he was finally allowed to eat.
"I remember calling the cafeteria and asking, 'Is the tomato soup vegetarian-based?' " he said. "And they said, 'Hang on, let me look at the can.' That's what launched my thinking, because there had to be something better than that."
Chemotherapy followed, knocking 30 pounds off Iyer's trim frame. When working with a dietitian on strategies to regain weight, he began to hit another wall: They were not speaking the same food-as-medicine language.
All of the dietitian's Eurocentric information was based on a Mediterranean diet, and Iyer, a Mumbai native who landed in Minnesota nearly four decades ago to attend college, was leaning into his body's reflexive hunger for the comfort foods of his Indian upbringing.
"When we're sick, we reach for the foods that we grew up with," he said.
For Iyer, that means rasam ("the chicken soup of my Indian soul," he said), a rich lentil broth redolent of tomatoes and tamarind. And lentil-rice cakes, a southern Indian staple fashioned from a fermented batter and steamed.