I was barely a moment inside Wal-Mart, studying the cucumbers and avocados, when a middle-aged man came up to say hi.
We started talking about the oil boom sweeping Williston, N.D. He said his co-workers were losing it out here in the middle of nowhere. Maybe he would lose it, too.
"You gotta really be focused on your sh--," he said. "And it's hard. And on that note, that's why you should let me take you to dinner."
I declined. He called later that evening to ask me on a date. He said he'd take me to Pizza Hut. I invented other plans. He phoned twice more.
Other women in Williston had warned me this would happen. They said they couldn't go anywhere alone without receiving an offer of some kind from an oil worker. The 24-hour retailer on Route 2 was the worst. The parking lot was crammed with cars bearing license plates from dozens of states, any time of day, as guys poured in from all over the country to make their fortune.
Working in Minneapolis, I'd come across stories about the wild impact of the discovery of billions of barrels of oil in western North Dakota. The high-paying jobs. Once quiet farm roads now straining with traffic. Crime. Rents on par with Manhattan.
And another remarkable effect that came into focus only when I visited Williston myself: an influx of men — single and married, overworked and lonely, men with big dreams, men who keep their heads down, men who cause trouble — has made it an overwhelming place to be female.
The ratio of men to women is nearly a legend. Some say it's two or three to one. One drunken man on the dance floor at DK's Lounge and Casino swore up and down that it was 153 to one. Whatever the number, a woman here is in high demand.