Didn’t get a Boundary Waters permit? Consider these alternative canoe camping sites

Still looking for a place to go canoe camping in the Upper Midwest this summer?

The surge to book a Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness (BWCAW) permit was intense again this year, even briefly bogging down the government’s reservation system after bookings went live Jan. 29.

Whether you lost out on a coveted entry point permit or don’t want to wait to see if one opens up last-minute, consider an alternative trip.

“There are so many great trips outside the Boundary Waters that are beautiful, fun and free, with no permit hassles,” said Scott Oeth, of Lino Lakes, who has guided on lakes and rivers. He dispenses tips, travel reports and more on his website, Bull Moose Patrol.

Here are five trips worth considering:

Minnesota

Where: Near Ely.

Campsites: Two canoe sites; four backpack sites; 73 drive-in sites, including 45 electric.

Permits: Park pass (rates vary based on residency); sites reservable up to 120 days in advance.

Watercraft: Motorized and nonmotorized.

Online: dnr.state.mn.us/state_parks

What to expect:

One of the park’s big draws is its feeling of isolation. “You are off the main path,” said longtime manager Jen Westlund. “You get that wilderness feel.” While the lake allows motorized boats, there are restrictions: Wakes are prohibited, meaning good news for paddlers.

Want to get as isolated as possible? Westlund suggested reserving one of the two boat-in sites. One also has hike-in access, and both have private docks.

Much like the BWCAW, there’s a good chance of seeing wildlife. Westlund should know; she’s managed for the park for 17 years. “You never know what kind of tracks or critters you might see,” she said.

Where: International Falls, Minn.

Campsites: 147 “front-country” sites on the park’s large lakes (Rainy, Kabetogoma, Namakan, Sandpoint); 14 backcountry sites.

Permits: Sites for summer are reservable now; autumn and winter bookings begin April 15.

Watercraft: Motorized and nonmotorized.

Online: recreation.gov

What to expect:

Minnesota’s lone national park has the wilderness character of the BWCAW by design. It is managed that way, senior interpretive naturalist Erik Ditzler said.

Motorized boat traffic is the difference, but not to the detriment of the camping experience, Ditzler said. It can get as secluded and quiet as any Boundary Waters trip.

“Ultimately, it is a positive in contrast to the BWCA because [allowing motorboats] makes the park accessible to more people,” he said.

Visitors can access the front-country campsites under their paddle power or reserve a water taxi. Distances vary.

In the backcountry, sites on the lakes of the Kabetogoma Peninsula are the most popular. Visitors access them either by hiking, or by a combination of paddling with a park-issued canoe and hiking.

The park makes its canoes mandatory for backcountry sites to thwart the threat of invasive species. Also, only artificial lures are allowed for fishing in the backcountry, and no pets are allowed. The most sought-out backcountry sites are on the park’s Chain of Lakes (Locator, War Club, Quill and Loiten), he said.

Wisconsin

Where: Cornell, Wis., near Chippewa Falls.

Campsites: Two campgrounds, 69 campsites (24 with electric).

Permits: Parks pass (rates vary depending on residency); sites reservable 11 months in advance.

Watercraft: Motorized and nonmotorized.

Online: wisconsin.goingtocamp.com

What to expect:

Canoe and kayak paddlers have discovered the flat water around the 1,000-acre park, where the Fisher River joins the Chippewa River, said park manager Zachary Thon. Channels meander among undeveloped islands to the park’s north. A 5-mile flowage between the Cornell and Holcombe dams gets few pleasure boaters, Thon said.

“The kayaking and canoeing possibilities are big attractions,” he said.

Several sites in the north campground have water access. South campground visitors can tie watercraft to a nearby boat mooring. “There are options for folks to get on the water if they are not right on it,” Thon added.

Minnesota-Wisconsin

Where: Northeast-central Minnesota/Wisconsin.

Campsites: 57 first-come, first-served sites in middle section; 19 in lower section.

Permits: None needed for sites mentioned above; permits required for St. Croix River sites between Hwy. 8 and the Soo Line High Bridge, near Somerset, Wis.

Watercraft: Motorized and unmotorized.

Online: nps.gov/sacn; recreation.gov

What to expect

National Park Service ranger Dan Peterson fields many calls at the St. Croix Falls, Wis., visitors center from inquisitive paddlers.

Paddling skill level, river conditions and time of year are among the dynamics at play.

Still, Peterson considers the whole river “pretty tame,” making it worth a warm-weather visit. Any rapids are generally Class I and II and easy to navigate.

The ranger suggested that canoe campers try a trip between Hwy. 70 in the Grantsburg, Wis., area and St. Croix Falls. Visitors can string together a trip perhaps paddling downriver and then back up along a 30- to 35-mile stretch with numerous options for an overnight or two. Plus, there are some backwater channels to explore at a slow pace.

His message to the public: “If you can have lunch with an otter or bald eagle, why be in a hurry?”

Maps on the riverway’s National Park Service web pages can help paddlers locate campsites, which can fill up quickly during the busy river season mid-July to early September, Peterson added. Weekends are especially active.

Peterson suggested that paddlers get ideas on YouTube, where some river travelers have chronicled their trips with useful tips and information.

“The riverway is a bit wild. Treat it wildly and experience it through your eyes,” he added.

Upper Michigan

Where: Near Watersmeet, in the Ottawa National Forest.

Campsites: 50 sites along eight lakes.

Permits: $15 per night; reservations are needed May 15 through Sept. 30.

Watercraft: Some electric motor use allowed.

Online: recreation.gov

What to expect:

Located in the western part of Upper Michigan in a million-acre wilderness, Sylvania is like a BWCAW in “miniature,” said longtime area outfitter Bob Zelinski.

“[Visitors] get the whole idea and concept before hitting the big one,” he said, adding that it is good entry-level canoe camping to acclimate young children.

The geology, for one, lowers the bar. Visitors won’t encounter the craggy rock that can make for tricky entry to BWCAW campsites. They more likely will find sandy beaches.

There are more than 20 portages of various lengths (from seven to 242 rods), but Zelinski said most visitors set up a base camp and take day trips. Many visitors park at Clark or Crooked lakes, put in at boat landings and paddle to their sites, he added.

The fishing is good for walleye, lake trout and northern pike, but know the rules before visiting. Only artificial lures with barbless hooks are allowed. The excellent bass fishing is catch-and-release, he said.

Oeth has visited, and said the setting can be reassuring, especially for newcomers. “If something happens, it is ringed with trails … a lot more forgiving [than the BWCAW],” he added.