The red-framed windows tucked into weathered wood siding only hinted at what lay inside Naniboujou Lodge on Minnesota's North Shore. I creaked open the screen doors to enter the 1927 dining room. Vibrantly colored Cree designs exploded across the room, arcing from floor to ceiling.
"People walk in and are kind of stunned," said Tyler Dean, Naniboujou's manager. "You don't see many places like this in the world."
I inwardly kicked myself for taking almost five decades to see this wonder along Lake Superior and the Brule River, northeast of Grand Marais.
As unique as it is, the resort — built to lure wealthy members until the Great Depression quashed the plan — is only one of many singular delights along Superior-hugging Hwy. 61. The entire 142-mile stretch of the iconic roadway known as the North Shore Scenic Drive is full of places to tempt drivers to cut their engines. Which are worth the stop?
From a cheery candy shop, to a top-notch hike and a Superior sail on a wooden schooner, here is a list of must-experience North Shore favorites, listed by miles from Duluth's Canal Park, where the drive begins, heading northeast out of town — and into summer bliss.
Mile 20 (on Old Hwy. 61): Savor treats in Knife River
Great Lakes Candy Kitchen in the tiny town of Knife River lures customers with its red-trimmed cottage and temptations ranging from hand-dipped ice cream bars and housemade gooey, nutty caramel turtles to buttery brittle and air crunch candy. Photos of the owners' family, which started Canelake's Candies in Virginia, Minn., more than a century ago, add to its sweet charm (greatlakescandy.com).
A Knife River must: Sampling sugar-cured smoked salmon, trout and Lake Superior whitefish from Russ Kendall's Smoke House, which has perfected the tradition through four generations (RussKendalls on Facebook).
Mile 27: Check out Two Harbors' history
Two Harbors' Agate Bay waterfront offers more than a pretty stroll along Lake Superior; it also highlights the history — and present-day embodiment — of the North Shore's shipping, railroad and mining industries. Visitors walk along the breakwater wall, watch 1,000-foot-long "lakers" load at the ore docks and pose by hulking locomotives and ore railcars. They belong to the Depot Museum, in the 1907 building that was once the headquarters of the Duluth and Iron Range Railroad. The 1892 Two Harbors Light Station, Minnesota's oldest operating lighthouse, tells tales of keeping ships safe with tours of a pilot house, light tower and fog signal building. (Find information on both the museum and the light station at lakecountyhistoricalsociety.org.)