Ducts for transite heating can be sealed

Q I live in a home that was built with transite heating (heating and air conditioning ducts under the poured concrete floor in the basement). We've had continuing problems with water infiltration. This year we intend to completely abandon the system. The suggested solution of pouring concrete into the underground ducts sounds perfect. But we can't locate a contractor who is familiar with transite heating, let alone the process of abandonment. What should we do?

A Abandon the ducting. It's the ultimate fix for this problematic building practice.

The ducts don't need to be completely filled with concrete, however.

Filling and sealing in an airtight manner at the registers and at the plenum can do the job, according to Phil Smith, energy specialist with the Minnesota Office of Energy Security.

(The plenum most commonly was the deepest point in ducting. It may be possible to install an airtight sump basket to collect and discharge the water that accumulates.)

This strategy is one used in addressing radon problems. Understanding radon mitigation may help explain the steps you need to take. Radon mitigators have experience in this activity and may be a good resource for you.

The Minnesota Department of Health, Environmental Health Division, has a lot of great information on radon as well as a listing of professionals providing mitigation services. Visit the agency's Environmental Health Web page at: www.health.state.mn.us (search for radon). Or call 651-201-4601 or 1-800-789-9050.

Abandoning the ducting can be costly. The Minnesota Housing Finance Agency's Fix-Up Fund can help homeowners make repairs and improvements to their homes. For households with incomes below $93,000, loans of up to $35,000 are available with terms of 10 to 20 years. For more information and lists of participating lenders, go to: www.mnhousing.gov and click on "Home Owners" for more information.

Stain-free tie Q Is there a way I can remove food stains from a tie at home?

A Yes, but before trying to remove the spot at home, you should test the tie for color fastness and be sure it isn't hand-painted. Rub the back of the tie with clear water on white terry toweling.

If the tie is color-fast, remove basic food stains by gently spotting the front of the tie with wet terry toweling.

Use a hair dryer to hasten drying time to prevent a water ring. Water rings are very hard to remove. (If you want to try to remove one, dampen the spot a bit. Pour cornstarch over it and let it set for four hours. With luck, the water ring will wick up into the cornstarch. Then brush or shake off the cornstarch.)

For grease, oil or butter-type stains, pretest as above, but use odorless mineral spirits instead of water and blot with terry toweling.

If those procedures don't work, try washing the tie by dipping it gently in a mild detergent such as Ivory Flakes or Dreft.

The biggest problem with washing ties is that almost all ties are constructed on the bias. That means that the fabric weave runs diagonally instead of up and down and side to side, so the tie is likely to twist into a corkscrew-shaped tube.

You'll have to block it as flat as possible.

Source: Debbie Soeffker, cleaning specialist with Minnesota Fireshield

Send your questions to Fixit in care of the Star Tribune, 425 Portland Av., Minneapolis, MN 55488, or call 612-673-7032, or e-mail fixit@startribune.com. Past columns are available at www.startribune.com/fixit. Sorry, Fixit cannot supply individual replies.