It was 11 years ago this week that Erica Strait announced she was opening a permanent home for her wildly popular farmers market stand, Foxy Falafel. Now, the chef/owner is closing her St. Paul restaurant.
Foxy Falafel, St. Paul's quick-serve darling, closing July 22
After 13 years of stoplight falafels, the good times are coming to a close.
"I want to express my deepest gratitude to our loyal staff, whose dedication and passion brought my culinary vision to life day after day," Strait said on social media. "I am immensely grateful for the love and support we received from the community, and I hope that my restaurant has left a lasting mark on your taste buds and hearts."
She said the decision was bittersweet, but with the end of her current lease, she knew it was time. The restaurant's last day is July 22.
Within hours of the announcement, comments from fans and other small food businesses came streaming into Foxy Falafel's social media: "A collective cryfest is now underway in the gluten free community. Thanks for all the years of feeding us delicious, safe food." "The beet falafel is my favorite restaurant dish ever." "I truly enjoyed watching you live out your dream."
Foxy Falafel began as a small farmers market stand operated by Strait, who is trained both as a chef and in nutrition. She mentored under Israeli-American chef Einat Admony to hone what became her signature falafel recipe. Her stand quickly became a must-stop for those crusty little bites, the joy of the pedal-powered smoothie machine and Strait's enthusiasm.
In 2012, Strait moved Foxy Falafel to its current location on quiet Raymond Avenue, just off University. It opened to rave reviews. Former Star Tribune food critic Rick Nelson praised Strait's "enthusiastically flavored, holistic-minded cooking," and the kitchen's ability to turn out such "multidimensional blend of nuanced textures, flavors and temperatures" at a remarkably affordable price tag.
The neighborhood has since seen an explosion of housing and construction. Through it all, Strait stuck to the heart of her menu while developing new favorites, including dill-battered cheese curds served with local honey.
Foxy Falafel also been known as a restaurant haven for those with food sensitivities, particularly those who are gluten-free and vegetarian-friendly. Strait was one of the first in the city to regularly offer bone broth as a beverage, and the sun-filled restaurant became a popular community gathering spot.
Fans have until July 22 (or while supplies last) to stop by for one more stoplight falafel — a mix of her signature green, beet and turmeric-colored curry falafels.
791 Raymond Av., St. Paul, 651-888-2255, foxyfalafel.com
Lefse-wrapped Swedish wontons, a soothing bowl of rice porridge and a gravy-laden commercial filled our week with comfort and warmth.