Fresh herbs, vegetables bring out the sunny side of eggs

For last-minute meals, scrambled eggs make a wonderful canvas for market vegetables.

Easier and less fussy than an omelet, frittata or quiche, they do not require any special equipment and the technique is straightforward. When topped with cheese, fresh herbs and spices, they are at the apex of eggs-for-dinner, or a hearty brunch piled onto a puffy toasted flour tortilla, pita or baguette. The basic recipe can be varied depending on what's in season or what suits your whim. The key ingredient is the eggs. Get them market fresh with bright yellow yolks and firm whites and truly eggy flavor.

All you need is a 10-inch skillet set over medium heat, filmed with melted butter or oil. The vegetables, all cut to the same size, are sautéed until tender (times will vary) before the eggs are added. This allows the eggs to absorb all those flavorful juices. In terms of quantity, figure about three to four eggs and about a half a pound of vegetables per person. You can expand or reduce the number of servings as needed; just be sure not to crowd the pan too much.

If you like your eggs creamy and soft, cook them slowly over lower heat and stir them gently. For larger "curds," raise the temperature to medium and work quickly. Cheese pulls everything together, adding richness and flavor.

These loaded eggs make quick use of whatever odds and ends you might have in your refrigerator — mushrooms, zucchini, corn, collards and/or kale. Today's recipe features south-of-the-border flavors, but feel free to play around with your own combinations. You might take this in an Italian direction with a little chopped rosemary, shredded Parmesan cheese and diced olives. Or, for a Tunisian version, substitute Za'atar for the chili powder, and top them off with feta cheese.

This one-pan meal is great with coffee or a beer — it's great dinner material, any time of day.

Serves 4 to 6.

Note: This one-skillet dish comes together in a flash. For creamier eggs, keep the heat low and gently stir until they're just set. Increase the heat for larger curds. In the photo it's served over a toasted tortilla, but it would be equally delicious on toast or a handful of corn chips. From Beth Dooley.

• 12 large eggs

• 1/2 tsp. coarse salt

• 2 tbsp. unsalted butter

• 1/2 c. diced onion

• 2 cloves garlic, smashed

• 1 medium red bell pepper, seeded and diced

• 1 small jalapeño pepper, seeded and diced

• 1 small plum tomato, diced

• 1/2 tsp. ground cumin

• Pinch chili powder, to taste

• Pinch salt and freshly ground pepper

• 3/4 c. grated Cheddar cheese

• 1/4 c. chopped cilantro

• Salsa for serving, optional

• Avocado for serving, optional

Directions

Beat the eggs with about 1/2 teaspoon salt in a medium bowl. Heat a skillet over medium-low heat, add the butter and swirl to melt and coat the pan. Add the onion, garlic, peppers, tomato, cumin, chili powder and a generous pinch of salt and pepper. Cook, stirring, until the edges of the onion are translucent, about 2 minutes.

Pour in the eggs and cook until the eggs are just starting to set, then stir to scramble until set but still creamy, about 1 minute. Sprinkle the cheese on top and then the cilantro. Serve on warmed tortillas, chips, or toast.

Tunisian variation: Substitute ground caraway or Za'atar for the chili powder and feta cheese for the Cheddar cheese. Serve on toasted pita bread.

Beth Dooley is the author of "The Perennial Kitchen." Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com.