'Garlic is like wine': Why Minnesota is a flavorful nirvana for garlic fans

"Garlic is like wine," said Chris Kudrna of Plum Creek Garlic in Clearwater, Minn., and one of the founders of the popular Minnesota Garlic Festival in Hutchinson. "It takes on the characteristics of the soil in which it is grown."

With its fertile, well-managed soil, the Twin Cities area is a great place to grow garlic. You'll find a range of different varieties in our local farmers markets and co-ops, all broadly classified into two main categories: hardneck and softneck.

Softneck garlic is the type that is easy to braid and has a relatively long shelf life. Each bulb produces up to 40 cloves in multiple layers, hence the nickname "artichoke garlic." In general, softneck garlic tends to have a relatively mild flavor. It's the all-around garlic, good fresh in vinaigrettes and pesto and it cooks nicely.

Hardneck garlic produces those pretty scapes that eventually become bulbil or mini-garlic cloves (smaller versions of the mother plant). Hardneck garlic doesn't keep quite as well as softneck, so plan to enjoy it right away. The varieties that grow here are robust, spicy and richer tasting than the softneck varieties and are perfect for zesty salsas, spicy pesto and fresh tomato sauce.

Store garlic at room temperature in a cool, dark place out of direct sunlight. It's best kept in a mesh or paper bag so air can circulate, and don't peel it until ready to use. If you have a few peeled gloves, store in a covered container in the refrigerator and use within a day.

Fresh garlic is best simply roasted. That's when its mellow, slightly nutty flavors and buttery qualities come into their own. The process is simple, the results divine.

While we're waiting for the garlic festival to return next year — it's been on a pandemic-induced hiatus — you can order dozens of garlic varieties directly from local growers through the Sustainable Farming Association. Plus, it's a terrific source of information for garlic geeks like me.

Makes about 1/2 cup, mashed.

Note: Roasted garlic is mild, velvety and perfect for spreading on bruschetta, tossing with pasta or whisking into mayonnaise. Double the quantity and store the mash in a covered container for a week, or freeze. From Beth Dooley.

• 4 to 5 heads medium-sized garlic bulbs

• 2 to 3 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

• Pinch coarse salt

Directions

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Use your fingers to peel away all the paper outer layers around the head of garlic, but leave the head intact with the cloves connected.

Trim about 1/4-inch off the top of the head of garlic to expose the tops of the cloves. Drizzle the oil over the heads of garlic, letting the oil sink down into the cloves. Sprinkle with salt. Set the bulbs in a roasting pan or a low-sided baking dish and tightly cover with a lid or aluminum foil. After about 40 minutes, check the garlic. The garlic is done when it's golden brown and a center clove is completely soft when pierced with a paring knife. Exact roasting time will depend on the size of the garlic, the variety and its age.

Beth Dooley is the author of "The Perennial Kitchen." Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com.