Tell people you're going to Fargo, and it can elicit a smirk. It could be wood-chipper flashbacks to the movie "Fargo" -- or too many Weather Channel whiteouts.
Here's a little secret, though: Fargo is thriving. Despite the economic downturn in much of the nation, western North Dakota's oil boom and a stable Fargo economy has kept its historic downtown humming with sophisticated boutiques and artsy restaurants that began filling in five years ago. It has a youthful feel, too, with three major universities in the area.
Blazing above it all is the iconic Fargo Theatre marquee, which beckons people to escape winter with its independent, artsy flicks. The 870-seat Art Deco theater shines brightest around Oscar season when it often shows the non-mainstream nominees and each March during the Fargo Film Festival, now in its 11th year.
The festival, set for March 1-5 this year, has grown from a few submissions to more than 130 entries from 28 states and six countries. It's particularly known for its choice of animation movies -- two of which are up for Oscars ("The Gruffalo" and "The Lost Thing"). Narrative features and documentaries address everything from medical tourism in India to quirky and comical, such as "The Lutefisk Wars." A full-access pass to all screenings costs $125 ($100 for students); single-session passes can be had for as little as $5 (1-701-239-8385; www.fargo filmfestival.org).
If you're at the theater on any weekend night, you might catch one of three players who can make its Mighty Wurlitzer sing and tell stories -- with two-story pipes, bells, train whistles, gunshot effects and bass drums rumbling through the walls. Upstairs, you can pose with Marge, heroine of "Fargo," who's appropriately carved by chainsaw and stands like a sentinel with her Elmer Fudd-like hat.
The biggest photo op, though, is outside below the marquee. "It's a huge, bright light on a cold, dark night," say Margie Bailly, the theater's executive director. "And it's such a touchstone for the community. There are very few of these Art Deco theaters around."
Shopping, too
The best shopping is near the theater, including Zandbroz Variety, a definite standout with an impressive selection of books and vintage display cases of fine pens, art papers, home decor, jewelry, handbags and a toy store filled with fun, nostalgic items (420 N. Broadway; 1-701-239-4749).