GLACIER NATIONAL PARK, MONT. – Not far as the crow flies from where I cast a fly last week into the Middle Fork of the Flathead River, Paul Dunn and his parents pitched camp. The year was 1967. Dunn was 16 years old. The month was August.
Dunn was an ambitious young man. A good student, he was a budding track star for Edina High School, and he was clever with a soccer ball. Even as a kid, he was enamored of the West, and on this trip, Glacier National Park was his family's last stop. Already they had been to Wyoming, had toured the Montana site of Custer's last stand and now, upon leaving Glacier, would camp their way home to Minnesota.
"One morning while we were at Glacier, my parents decided to take a hike, but I said I didn't want to go,'' Dunn, now 72 and living in Colorado, recalled. "Instead I hitchhiked to St. Mary, on the eastern edge of the park, and got a job as a busboy. Then I hitchhiked back, showed the employment note to my parents, and they let me stay when they went home.''
Dunn wasn't the only young Minnesotan working at Glacier that summer. Perhaps hundreds of others did, among them 19-year-old Julie Helgeson, of Albert Lea, a popular and active high school student and rising sophomore at the University of Minnesota who by day labored in the laundry at East Glacier Lodge, where Dunn also had signed on.
Dunn and Helgeson could not know in advance that fate would ensnare them at Glacier on the night of Aug. 12 and early morning of Aug. 13, 1967, during which Dunn was pinned down in his sleeping bag by a grizzly bear, and Helgeson, 20 miles away, was mauled to death by a second grizzly.
Nor could they know those dates would forever mark a turning point in the park's more than half-century history and in the way park officials manage its grizzlies.
Outside of Glacier National Park in 1967, the Vietnam War was dividing the country, and war protests were tearing apart cities and families. Yet the park itself wasn't much different than it had been in the years since its founding in 1910. It was, and in many ways remains, a place of magnificent crystalline rivers, endless foamy waterfalls, jagged mountaintops and, just now, chromatic meadows of blooming wildflowers.
"I loved Glacier then, and I still do,'' Dunn said. "It's a great place and one I've kept in my heart.''