First look: Howard's Bar in Stillwater is a dive bar with a gold-star chef

"I said we had to have fresh pasta if we're going to do a lasagna, but the rest of it? It's not a family recipe thing. That's an Adam thing," said Caroline Smith, co-owner of the recently opened Howard's Bar on Stillwater's Main Street.

The "Adam thing" is cheffy nods to the homey comforts sprinkled throughout the menu. Co-owner, spouse and chef Adam To spent time in Twin Cities kitchens before eventually landing at the now-closed Michelin-starred Trois Mec in Los Angeles. The duo moved back to Minnesota, where they opened Howard's Bar this summer with dive-bar intent and modern food sensibilities.

At the time, "The Chamber of Commerce and some of our lenders, being from Stillwater, gave us some very good advice: 'Don't upset the locals,' " said Caroline, who grew up at her mother's cafe in Detroit Lakes, Minn.

The location: 302 Main St. S., Stillwater, howardsbar.com. Open noon-11 p.m. Tue.-Fri., 10a.m.-11 p.m. Sat.-Sun. Brunch served from 10 a.m.-2 p.m. on Sat.-Sun.

The vibe: When you walk inside, the bar feels properly lived in, the wood floors sport a few scuffs, the neon signs blink and some of the staff are holdovers from Whitey's Bar, which last occupied this address. The pours are quick and the small-town hospitality means that even if one person is running both the bar and the dining room, people seated will likely get a "Be right with you folks!" call from the kitchen pickup window.

The food: Roaming through the menu feels like a celebration of the old-school supper clubs of nearby Wisconsin. Pair a pint of icy beer with the walleye fingers ($15) or Ellsworth cheese curds ($11). The former have all the fun of a lake country fish fry with hand-battered fresh walleye served alongside Old Bay-seasoned aioli. The cheese curds boast a magnificent cheese pull, and other appetizers are all bar-food familiars given just a bit of an upgrade. Nachos are topped with barbacoa ($15), skinny French fries are made in-house.

Salads are more than just an appeasement with each ingredient given attention, from the marinated tomatoes in the Cobb salad to the dilly fresh ranch dressing.

Sandwiches include the burger ($15 for a single, $18 for a double patty), this one made with Peterson's beef and caramelized onions. The Reuben ($16) looks like a straightforward rendering of the classic on marble rye bread, but inside is a pile of corned beef that's as tender as Meg Ryan yielding to Billy Crystal in "When Harry Met Sally" in New York City's Katz's Deli.

Entrees include the fresh-pasta layered lasagna ($22), served in a white plate/bowl hybrid and a slice of bread for soaking up every last bit of meat sauce and cheese. Schnitzels ($24) may have fallen out of popularity in modern times, but this plate suggests it's ready to stage a comeback, with thin and crispy pork served alongside a dilly fresh salad made from fingerling potatoes.

New to the dessert menu on the day we visited comes courtesy of Stillwater neighbor Sarah's Tispy Pies. A Key lime tartlet ($9) is topped with a little dollop of whipped cream.

The drinks: It's a neighborhood bar with a decent assembly of top-shelf liquors, but you won't find a fancy drink menu here. It's best to stick to favorites like a gin and tonic or whiskey cola. But if asked, I would bet the bar could whip together an Old Fashioned. Beers on tap and in a bottle are around $5. There's also a nice selection of wine that's a big step above most dive bars, and welcome on the days that call for a summery glass of prosecco or dry rosé.

Getting there: This is right in prime downtown Stillwater, so street parking is tight on summer weekends. On quiet days, there are usually spots just a few steps away. Weekday lunch can net a space right outside.

Noise: Same as the parking. On weekend or summer nights, the city nightlife is hopping and there's not much that can be done to mitigate the sound. With lively jukebox music and rumbling motorcycle pipes outside, it's a good time that doesn't invite deep conversation. During the daytime, the front windows open to the street and you can hear the birds chirping and your dining companion's inner most thoughts.

Fun facts: If the name of co-owner Caroline Smith sounds familiar, it might be because she's a well-known local musician who performs as Your Smith. And the name Howard's Bar? It's after the family dog.