In the lobby of a Beirut bank, three customers stuff $100 bills into plastic bags. Each note has its serial number recorded on a receipt, as local law requires. One man's receipt was so long it trailed on the ground.
Surreal as it seems, this scene would be common — if banks had dollars to spare. Over the past few weeks customers have lined up for hours only to learn that they cannot access their money. One was told that his branch had less than $2,000 in the vault.
Long a fixture of life, the dollar has become an obsession. Lebanon's currency, the pound, has been pegged at 1,500 to the dollar since 1997. Receipts are printed in both currencies; shopkeepers make change with a mix of dollars and pounds.
Officially nothing has changed. But the panic points to a different reality. Protests in Beirut on Sept. 29 heightened the sense of crisis.
Many ATMs have stopped dispensing dollars. Banks have quietly lowered withdrawal limits to $1,000 a day and imposed arbitrary rules, like banning dollar transactions after 5 p.m. and on weekends, that in effect bar workers from using their accounts. Businesses are forced into a black market, where a dollar now fetches 1,600 pounds, and occasionally up to 1,750. The government insists the situation is under control. The value of such reassurances is depreciating.
First to suffer are businesses that need hard currency. Petrol stations, for example, sell fuel in pounds but buy it in dollars. They briefly went on strike on Sept. 26 to protest against a dearth of dollars at the official rate. Worried drivers lined up in bumper-to-bumper traffic. Wheat millers have the same problem and have warned of possible bread shortages.
On Sept. 30, the central bank promised to provide dollars at the official rate for firms that import fuel, medicine and wheat. The guarantee should prevent any immediate scarcity. It could also leave Lebanon with, in effect, a two-tier exchange rate. A shortage of dollars is not all bad news, since it should discourage imports and trim a current-account deficit that was 25% of gross domestic product (GDP) last year. But it will be painful for a country that relies so much on imported goods.
Such a decision is well beyond the mandate of most central bankers. Not Riad Salamé, who has run the Banque du Liban (BDL) since 1993. Admirers praise him for keeping the currency stable through years of political chaos. The BDL looks well-capitalized, with $37 billion in foreign reserves at the end of July. It should have no trouble financing essential imports, which run between $4 billion and $5 billion a year.