Minnesota apples are ripe for exploring in sweet and savory dishes

Suddenly, the shadows are long, the air is cool and apple season is on. In my kitchen, apples are everywhere — in sauce and crisps, pancakes and cakes. They roast with chicken and sizzle with sausages, garnish platters of cheeses and smoked meat. Bite into a juicy, sweet-tart-snappy apple and taste autumn, now.

At Sweetland Orchard in Webster, 100 varieties of sweet and cider apples define our region's apple terroir. Stewarded by Gretchen Merryweather, owner and orchardist, these splendid trees bear a range of heritage and modern apples you'll not find in grocery stores. With names like Duchess of Oldenberg, Ruby Jon, and Bonnie Best (for pie), there's a wealth of appley knowledge to explore at this and other local orchards.

A child of the Red Delicious and Granny Smith era, Merryweather found love at first bite through her music teacher-orchardist. After an apprenticeship, she found an orchard of her own and owes many of her trees to the University of Minnesota's apple breeding program, which brings new varieties of trees into circulation each year.

When asked about her favorite pick, Gretchen said that it will vary through the season; some fruit early, others late. But in general, she said prefers the russet apples, those with rough, nubby skins, drawn to their aromas and dry, intense spicy-tangy-sugary flesh. Examples include Egremont Russet, fine-grained with creamy, tangy-sweet taste, and the yellowish-red and aromatic Pomme Gris or French Russets, a favorite of Thomas Jefferson's, who grew them at Monticello. Then there's the Keepsake, a small, hard, dense apple that packs a spicy-sweet punch.

Minnesota is the 15th largest apple-growing state in the country. It's not the size but the diversity that has put Minnesota apples on the culinary map. Orchards, like Sweetland, offer eaters and cooks a wide range of different apples to choose from for eating out of hand, simmering into sauce, or baking into crisps and pies.

"The best way to appreciate the different nuances in apple varieties is to just taste them in the orchard where they've just been picked. That provides a full, sensorial experience and a deep engagement with nature. Plus, apple picking is a tradition in our state," Merryweather said. "So many of us have childhood memories of going apple-picking with our families in the fall, filling our kitchens with wonderful appley aromas; it gives us all a sense of accomplishment and pride."

This year's apples are abundant, so let's enjoy them while they're here. There is no way to know what next season will bring us.

"Mother Nature is in control," Merryweather said. "Working in orchards has cured my perfectionist tendencies; it keeps me humble."

Apples from our local orchards are perfect for making the very best blue ribbon-quality pies and cakes. Explore the many varieties offered at farmers markets, or head to a local orchard. The Minnesota Grown Directory (minnesotagrown.com) lists all the orchards in the state, or check our updated list of local orchards.

Serves 10 to 12.

Chocked with shredded apples and bright cranberries, this cake is finished with melted butter and a sprinkle of powdered sugar. It's great right out of the oven and even better the next day. From Beth Dooley.

• 1 c. (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature, plus more for greasing the pan

• 1 1/2 c. granulated sugar

• 4 eggs

• 2 tsp. vanilla

• 3 1/2 c. flour

• 1 tsp. ground cinnamon

• 1/2 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg

• 2 tsp. baking powder

• 1 tsp. fine salt

• 1 c. buttermilk

• 1/2 c. shredded apple

• 1 c. cranberries, chopped

• 2 to 3 tbsp. powdered sugar, for garnish

Directions

Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Generously grease a 10- or 12-inch Bundt pan, being sure to get into all of the pan's grooves.

In a large bowl, whip together the butter and sugar until light and fluffy, then beat in the eggs and vanilla.

In a separate bowl, whisk together the flour, cinnamon, nutmeg, baking powder and salt. Add half of the flour mixture to the mixer and with the mixer running, add the buttermilk in a slow, steady stream until combined. Add the remaining flour and mix until incorporated, scraping the bowl to be sure it's all mixed. Fold the shredded apple and the cranberries into the batter.

Pour the batter into the prepared Bundt pan and spread evenly. Tap the pan on the counter to help even out the air pockets. Bake until a sharp knife inserted into the cake comes out clean, 45 to 55 minutes.

Let the cake cool in the pan for 15 to 20 minutes, then flip the pan onto a cooling rack to release the cake. Cool completely and dust with powdered sugar for garnish.

Serves 4 to 6.

In this cozy, one-pan dinner, the apples and fennel roast slowly alongside sausages. A light glaze of maple and whole grain mustard gives the whole dish a savory-sweet edge. Choose either sweet or hot pork sausage and crisp-tart apples such as Haralson. Serve with a green salad and plenty of rough bread to soak up the pan juices. From Beth Dooley.

• 2 medium fennel bulbs, trimmed and cut into 1/2-in. wedges

• 2 tart-crisp apples (i.e. Haralson, SweeTango), cored and cut into 1/2-in. wedges

• 1 tbsp. hazelnut or sunflower oil

• 1 lb. pork sausage

• 1 tbsp. whole grain mustard

• 1 tbsp. maple syrup

• Chopped parsley, optional, for garnish

Directions

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Scatter the fennel and apples over the sheet pan and drizzle with the oil. Prick the sausages and place on the pan.

Roast the sausages, apples and fennel, tossing every 15 minutes, until the sausages are browned and cooked to 160 degrees and the fennel is tender and the apples are caramelized, about 30 to 40 minutes.

In a small dish, whisk together the mustard and maple syrup. Drizzle over the sausages and continue roasting until the sausages are glazed. Transfer the sausages, fennel and apples to a serving platter, scraping up any of the browned bits from the pan and adding to the dish. Serve garnished with parsley.

Beth Dooley is the author of "The Perennial Kitchen." Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com.