Everybody hates tequila. Even people who say they like tequila hate tequila.
Its mere mention brings back memories of that one night — we've all had it — where shots of José Cuervo sloshed our insides, twisted and turned our stomachs and made us scream "Never again!"
Ugh, the horror.
But it doesn't have to be like this, says the guy behind the massive 100-plus tequila list at the new Barrio in downtown Minneapolis. Tequila expert Junior Williams (son of legendary jazzman Irv Williams) uses words like "misunderstood" and "demonized" to describe the harsh perceptions of Mexico's famous export.
For him, tequila is "a pure love," a liquor with soul. "After I was introduced to the higher-end tequilas — now that's all I drink," Williams said.
He's not alone. According to the Distilled Spirits Council of the United States, imports of tequila have risen 46 percent since 2002, with top-shelf brands growing fastest.
If you've got the guts and want to explore the full range of tequila that Barrio has to offer, you'll have to know more than just Cuervo and trendy Patron.
Here are nine things you need to know about tequila, i.e., what we managed to scribble down during a recent tequila tasting at Barrio.
1. It's all about the agave
What's agave? For tequila, it's everything. The large desert plant (not a cactus) includes hundreds of species, but only one — the blue agave — is made into tequila. Connoisseurs drink only tequila that is labeled "100 percent agave." If it's not labeled, it's called a "mixto," meaning only 51 percent of the liquor is pure agave with the rest a concoction of sugar cane and other additives. This country's top-selling tequila, José Cuervo Gold, is a mixto. "You always want to see if it's 100 percent agave," Williams said. "It's always going to mean better
quality."
2. Mexico is serious about its tequila
Tequila is regulated by the Mexican government. Just as champagne in France may only be called champagne if it was made in a particular region, tequila is only tequila if it was made near its titular town in the state of Jalisco in western Mexico.
3. Tequila gets better with age
Tequila typically is broken down into five categories: Mixtos are called gold, while 100 percent agave tequilas are called blanco (also called silver), reposado (rested), anejo (aged) and extra anejo (extra aged). Blancos go right from distillation into the bottle, while reposados and anejos are aged anywhere from three months to several years. "A lot of people make the mistake of thinking 'gold' means better," Williams said. But colors can be deceiving. The gold in mixtos usually comes from artificial coloring, while the gold or brown color of reposados and anejos come from cognac and bourbon oak barrels used in the aging process.
4. Hold the salt and lime
If you've had a shot of tequila, you know the lick-shoot-suck routine. But that spring-break silliness should only be done with minor tequila brands. "Anejo and extra anejo shouldn't be shot; they should be savored," Williams said. In fact, Williams urges tequila drinkers to ...
5. ... treat it like wine
While you might be used to drinking tequila from a shot glass, the proper way to serve most reposados and anejos is in a flute or snifter. Likewise, you'll see tequila drinkers like Williams co-opting that common wine ritual: Swirl, sniff, sip (and swish, too). Don't worry, only lesser-quality tequilas sting. While that intense peppery taste remains in many tequilas, the higher-end brands offer more pleasure than pain.
6. There is no worm
At some point, tequila and that fabled worm-in-the-bottle became inseparable. But real
tequila never has a worm. That's mescal, a similar and widely distributed Mexican liquor made in different regions and produced under different guidelines. The worm simply verifies the proof of alcohol, Williams said.
7. Don't look for Patron in Mexico
While the smooth-tasting Patron has become the second-highest-selling tequila brand in the United States, it's not sold in Mexico, Williams said.
8. Bring your credit card
The 100-plus tequila shots at Barrio range in price from $4 to a staggering $95. The latter is the Gran Patron Burdeos, which is triple distilled and aged in Bordeaux wine barrels from France's Chateaux Margaux.
9. A tip from Barrio's tequila connoisseur
Williams said his favorite tequila is Arette Suave, a reposado that is rested in white oak barrels for six months. The $19 shot — one that you should sip — has a floral scent and notes of vanilla and pepper. Very well rounded. "If I could only drink one tequila," Williams said, "this is the one I would drink." That's pure love.
thorgen@startribune.com • 612-673-7909