Cemeteries have a particular place in the legends and symbolism of Halloween. Wraiths rising from the graves. Tombstones standing stark in the moonlight.
If you want to stroll past the oldest cemetery in Minneapolis, you’d best hope no spirits disturb your visit. It’s the Pioneers and Soldiers Memorial Cemetery, and as the name suggests, those ghosts would be hardy souls.
The Hennepin History Museum (2303 3rd Av. S., Mpls.) has a new exhibit on the cemetery titled “In Memoriam: Residents of Pioneers and Soldiers Cemetery” and it’s a tidy, compact assessment of the sprawling grounds that line Lake Street between Cedar Avenue and 21st Avenue S.
Pioneers and Soliders is not an upscale expanse like Lakewood, which has fine sculpture dotting its rolling hills. Nor is it in a middle-class location like Oak Hill, which has headstones ancient and new. Pioneers and Soldiers is as old as the state, and holds the bones of the immigrants who came across the ocean to make a life in a new land, then join it in death. And it’s closed to new applicants.

It was previously known as Layman’s Cemetery, named for the couple that owned the land. They got into the cemetery business in 1858, the year of statehood. Since they had a substantial property, and since there was always a need for a cemetery, they entered the graveyard business.
The Laymans both died in 1886. The graveyard continued to accept new residents until it was full in 1919, with a population of 27,000. Looking at it now, it doesn’t seem full. The headstones are widely spaced, as if the residents are keeping a respectful distance from one another. Many graves are unmarked, with only a faint depression in the earth to tell you to mind where you are treading.
The city of Minneapolis took over in 1928, and build a fence around the 27-acre property.
About 7,000 residents were removed and reburied elsewhere in the 1920s, and only two have been buried in the cemetery since 1999.