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Plight in France: Au revoir, petit café?

November 23, 2008 at 4:28AM

Nathalie Guerin, 35, opened Le Festi'Val bar and cafe in Saulieu, France, two years ago full of high hopes. But beginning this summer, business started to droop, and in October, she said, "It's been in free fall."

"Now there's no one," she said, standing in a somber room with a few sad holiday decorations, an idle pool table and one young man playing a video game.

"People fear the future, and now with the banking crisis, they are even more afraid," she said, her eyes reddening. "They buy a bottle at the supermarket, and they drink it at home."

Guerin's plight is being replicated all over France, as traditional cafes and bars suffer and even close, hit by changing attitudes, habits and now a poor economic climate. In 1960, France had 200,000 cafes, said Bernard Quartier, president of the National Federation of Cafes, Brasseries and Discotheques. Now it has fewer than 41,500, with an average of two closing every day.

"The bar of a cafe is the parliament of the people," as Honore de Balzac wrote, but it is being less frequently visited these days, especially by the young.

Not only are the French spending less and drinking less, cutting down on the intensity and quality of the debates, but on Jan. 1, after much huffing and puffing, France extended its smoking ban to bars, cafes and restaurants.

Daniel Perrey, 57, owner of the Cafe du Crucifix in Crimolois, blamed social change, saying: "Sadly, it is the end to a way of life. The culture is changing, and we feel it."

The cafe, he said, is a kind of public living room, especially in small towns and cities. "We need the cafe to have an equilibrium between the village and the world outside," Perrey said. "Without the cafe, you lose the conviviality. You lose your mates. ...

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"We have to be very careful," Perrey continued. "If we standardize everything in France, and we study everything, and forbid everything, we destroy respect for our culture. We need to preserve the cafe bar. What is a village but a cafe, a school, a pharmacy, a bakery and a city hall?"

NEW YORK TIMES

OUT OF TOWN NEWS TO GET ... OUT OF TOWN

They survived when Barnes & Noble took over the Harvard Coop, and even when the Tasty, a popular 16-stool diner, gave way to an Abercrombie & Fitch. But when word spread last week that Out of Town News, the landmark newsstand just outside Harvard's gates, would close, the legions who love Harvard Square went numb.

For decades, the copper-roofed kiosk has not only sold newspapers from around the world, but has also been one of greater Boston's favorite meeting spots.

But the tiny building's tenant, Hudson News, has decided not to renew its lease, saying the business is no longer profitable, even in this city of avid readers.

"We all would love to keep the world the way we once knew it," said Robert Healy, the city manager. "But I'm kind of a believer that the market is the market."

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That wasn't how some newsstand fans saw it.

"We're losing our institutions," said Floyd Farley, who stopped by Thursday to peruse magazines from Africa. "I've been coming here for decades, since I came to Massachusetts, and I'm just stunned."

Francis Donovan, who came in for a New Yorker, said he blamed the square's landlords, including Harvard, for pricing out small bars, restaurants and shops. "We're losing the things that made this place unique and appealing, and it's not a good change at all." He left without his New Yorker -- it had sold out -- but with the knowledge, not wholly comforting, that he could read it online.

NEW YORK TIMES

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