Take those French breakfast radishes, lipstick red with striking white tips; the stunning "watermelon radishes," green and shocking pink; and those daikon varieties — crimson, scarlet, purple and snow white. Crisp and zesty, fresh radishes perk up our winter-weary palates while adding zip to salads and grain bowls and crunch to bean dishes.

Radishes are best eaten fresh and raw, so ignore suggestions of cooking them. They lose their vibrant personalities with heat. Even the radish greens, if very fresh, add a spicy note to tossed salads with a flavor that's close to watercress and arugula.

When selecting radishes, stay away from those that are cracked or soft and limp. Store them wrapped in a damp paper towel in the refrigerator to keep them moist and crunchy. My grandmother kept her garden-fresh radishes in a bowl of ice water on the countertop, within easy reach, and munched on them all day long.

A mix of different radishes adds color, texture and a bit of sharpness to salads, slaws and soft cheeses. Try them shredded and worked into soft butter, along with lemon zest and sea salt, for a wonderful spread. They're lovely slivered and served on chèvre or fresh mozzarella and finished with a drizzle of olive oil. Dice and swirl them into plain yogurt and season with lime and chopped fresh mint for a light dressing or dip.

My favorite concoction is a quick slaw of several different radish varieties, tossed in a very simple vinaigrette with handfuls of chopped cilantro and mint. This makes a lively side dish or, when tossed with beans and grains, a light, bold, main dish serving of spring.

Many Radish Slaw

Serves 4.

This spicy, festive slaw celebrates different radish varieties. Toss in carrots, salad turnips and chopped radish greens for more color and zest. Garnish with the tiny radish sprouts (available in most co-ops) or microgreens. It's a spontaneous salad, based on what you happen to have on hand. From Beth Dooley.

• 1 small daikon

• 1 China Rose radish

• 1 small watermelon radish

• 5 red round radishes

• 1 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

• 2 tbsp. fresh lemon juice

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

• 1/4 c. chopped cilantro leaves

• 2 tbsp. chopped fresh mint leaves

• 1/4 c. chopped radish leaves

• 1 oz. Manchego cheese, grated

• 1/2 c. fresh radish sprouts

Directions

Trim the radishes and remove and set aside the greens. Grate the radishes and put them into a large bowl. Toss in the olive oil to coat the vegetables, then toss in the lemon juice and season with salt and pepper, to taste. Toss in the cilantro, mint, and radish leaves.

Serve on a platter or individual plates garnished with the cheese and radish sprouts.

Beth Dooley is the author of "The Perennial Kitchen." Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com.