Recipe: French four-spice chicken

FRENCH FOUR-SPICE CHICKEN

Serves 4.

• 1/2 tsp. sugar

• 1/2 tsp. fine sea salt plus 1/2 tsp. for curing the bird

• 5 lb. chicken, breast removed

• 11/2 tsp. dried thyme

• 11/2 tsp. black pepper (preferably freshly ground)

• 1 1/2 tsp. ground nutmeg

• 1/8 tsp. ground cloves

• 3/4 tsp. ground ginger

• 2 tsp. canola oil

Directions

Mix together the sugar and 1/2 teaspoon salt and rub all over the chicken. Let cure in the refrigerator, uncovered, at least 2 hours and as long as overnight.

Remove the chicken from the refrigerator and blot dry.

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.

Mix together the thyme, black pepper, nutmeg, cloves, ginger and the remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt. Rub the chicken with the oil and then rub on the spice mixture, as evenly as possible, both underside and top side.

Set the chicken, skin-side-up, onto a rack in a roasting pan.

Roast the chicken for 30 minutes, or until nicely golden brown. Turn the oven down to 350 degrees and roast another 30 minutes, or until the leg feels loose in the socket and the meat tests 180 degrees with a meat thermometer.

Turn off the oven and leave the chicken inside for 10 minutes. Let the chicken rest for 10 more minutes at room temperature before serving. (Don't forget about the tender chicken oysters, the nuggets in the small of the chicken's back.)

BROWN BUTTER CHICKEN BREASTS

Serves 2.

• 2 boneless chicken breast halves (3/4 lb.)

• 4 tbsp. salted butter

• 2 sprigs fresh rosemary

• 1/4 tsp. fine sea salt plus more to taste

• Freshly ground black pepper

• 2 tsp. finely minced parsley

Directions

Cut off the flap of the tenderloin on the underside of each chicken breast, and then slice the chicken breasts lengthwise, so that each breast half has been divided into three long fairly equal pieces.

Heat a 12-inch pan over medium heat and add the butter. When it foams and turns nut-brown, remove it from the heat and add the rosemary sprigs. Tilt the pan so that the butter foams up over the rosemary. Let cool for a few minutes.

Set the pan back on the burner, over a medium-low heat. Season the six chicken breast pieces with salt and pepper and add them to the butter. Cook very slowly, moving and turning the pieces often, until all surfaces have turned white and the pieces all feel firm to the touch, about 20 minutes. (If the buttery juices begin to simmer, turn down the heat to low.) As the tenderloin pieces may be a bit smaller and cook more quickly than the others, move them to the edges of the pan, or lay them on top of a larger piece when done.

Add the minced parsley and remove the pieces to a cutting board. Slice each on the bias into three or four pieces and transfer to a warmed platter. Pour the pan juices over the chicken and serve.

AVGOLEMENO

Serves 2.

Note: This recipe is easily doubled.

• 1 tsp. canola oil

• 1 chicken breastbone (1/2 lb.)

• Bones and scraps from the roasted chicken (about 1/3 lb.)

• 1/2 onion, diced

• 2 garlic cloves, smashed

• 1 tsp. salt, divided

• 4 c. water

• 2 dried bay leaves

• 1/4 c. arborio rice

• 2 eggs

• 3 tbsp. fresh lemon juice

• Meat picked from cooked breastbone (about 1/2 c.)

• 2 tsp. finely chopped fresh dill

Directions

Heat the canola oil in a wide-bottomed pot over medium-high heat. Add the chicken breastbone, the bones and scraps from the cooked chicken, onion and garlic. Season with 1/2 teaspoon salt and cook, flipping the bones now and then, until the scraps are browned. Add the water, bay leaves and the rest of the salt. Bring to a simmer and skim and discard any foam from the surface.

Cook until the stock tastes rich, about 45 minutes. Strain the stock through a fine mesh colander. Pick all meat scraps from the breastbone, along with any tender bits from the dark meat. When finished, discard solids.

Place the stock in a clean stockpot and bring to a simmer. Add the rice and stir, keeping it from the bottom of the pot, and cook 20 minutes, or until the rice is soft and tender. Turn the heat down to low.

Whisk the eggs and lemon together in a large bowl. Add one large ladle-full of hot stock to the egg mixture, whisking until smooth. Add another ladle and whisk, then pour the lightened egg mixture into the hot broth, whisking immediately. The broth should thicken. Add the picked meat and dill and remove the soup from the heat. Season with freshly ground pepper and taste for salt, adding more if necessary.