Restaurant Guide '10: Uptown

Minneapolis' hottest area naturally boasts its trendiest restaurants too.

August 17, 2012 at 8:56PM

From left: Steak tartara, baby beets, and preserved swordfish with heirloom tomatoes. Photo by Tom WallaceIl Gatto

  • Italian
    • $$

      The former Figlio has been remade into "The Cat," a sort-of Italian restaurant and bar. While Il Gatto's menu still emphasizes the pasta and pizza of its predecessor, the most coveted toy in the kitchen clearly remains the wood-burning grill. Here's what to order: succulent chunks of cured swordfish, like the dreamiest canned tuna imaginable, served with wedges of colorful heirloom tomatoes. Thick slices of house-made pancetta, hot off the grill and dressed with juicy Mission figs. Meaty octopus tentacle, charred by the grill's intense heat and resting on tender white beans and stewed peppers. Any of the fabulous, smartly topped plate-sized pizzas, as well as the side dish of brightly crunchy radishes, dressed in a light anchovy-citrus vinaigrette. Several Figlio standards have also made a comeback. Although the Calhoun Square space was gutted and rebuilt, the barely altered tri-part layout will feel familiar to Figlio fans. The wiseacre Parasole brain trust came up with a whole kitty back story that references Southern Italian brothels, a 16th-century pope and an Italian sexual proverb. It's all amusing eatertainery fodder, but as a theme to hang a restaurant on, well, it's a bit of a stretch. Besides, who notices Abyssinians and Korats when the pizza is this good? --Rick Nelson

      Uptown Cafeteria and Support Group. Photo by Brendan SullivanUptown Cafeteria and Support Group

      • American
        • $$

          If only this Cafeteria tasted as good as it looks. It's people-watching central, and hordes of the beautiful people are clearly thinking of it as their new clubhouse. Who needs online social networking when there's Uptown Cafeteria? The topper, literally, is the restaurant's vast and vastly popular rooftop lounge. There's just one slight problem: The food doesn't always live up to the surroundings. There isn't much rhyme or reason to chef Jeff Anderson's eclectic menu. That's by design. Items were selected because they're what the powers-that-be at Parasole Restaurant Holdings, the restaurant's parent company, most enjoy eating themselves. The key words here are affordability and familiarity. Sometimes a hot turkey sandwich with mashed potatoes and gravy, or tender Cheddar-onion biscuits, or a gi-hugic serving of a by-the-book pot roast stroganoff, served with the collective eagerness of the cast of "Glee," is exactly what fits the bill. But imagine a world where Parasole put as much effort into the nuances of cooking as they do into the nuances of design. Now that's an Uptown Cafeteria (which, by the way, isn't a cafeteria) that we'd praise to the stars. --Rick Nelson

          Steamed bun with pulled chicken from Moto-i. Photo by Tom WallaceMoto-i

          • Japanese/Asian
            • $$

              Moto-i's food tends to get overshadowed by owner Blake Richardson's sake-making efforts, but chef Jason Engelhart's work more than stands up to Richardson's liquid counterparts. The bar snacks are tasty: roasted Spanish peanuts that brazenly whistle with lime and Thai chile flavors. Wrinkled, finger-length shishito peppers, gently fried and twinkling with salt, have a teasing sweet-hot bite. Nutty taro is fried and served with a feisty chile-kissed mayo. Ropes of chewy, flavorful beef jerky give jaws a workout. Puck-shaped sweet potato croquettes have a pleasantly crunchy outside that give way to a rich, mellow interior. The menu's small-plate section really shines, starting with steamed buns, slider-size sandwiches filled with crispy caramelized pork belly glazed in a thick hoisin sauce or pulled roast chicken splashed with a fiery chile sauce. Engelhart does a more-than decent bulgogi -- the traditional Korean grilled beef -- and has a nice touch with kimchee (Korean fermented vegetables), steering clear of using brined shellfish but obviously not timid with the sweat-inducing seasonings. Even the chicken wings are worth ordering. For larger appetites, Engelhart produces a handful of rice and noodle dishes, with mixed results. --Rick Nelson

              Mt. Fuji

              • Sushi
                • $$

                  I am pleased to report that my friends at the Fuj have extended their happy hour to Saturdays and Sundays. They have not, however, decided to rethink their seemingly endless collection of bad pop-jamz CDs. I don't care, though, because they have the prettiest delectable sushi rolls around, and during happy hour you can have a bountiful, quality sushi feast on the relative cheaps. My boyfriend, who is very comfortable with his sexuality, loves him his pink tiger roll: plump 'n' lovely pink soybean paper pouches of avocado, crunch, crab sticks and cukes. I choose to lose my mind over the yummy crunchy shrimp tempura Japanese Dream; the tuna-licious Crazy Tuna Roll with a delightfully smoky, broth-like sauce; the more-exciting-than-the-casino Treasure Island roll; and the red 'n' green Christmas present you will never want to return: the Fuji III. Don't forget to go crazy with the nigiri, the interesting martinis or the classic sake, while Justin Timberlake crows on about a river made of human tears. --katvonkluegel

                  Ecopolitan. Photo by Chandra AkkariEcopolitan

                  • Raw/vegetarian
                    • $$

                      Finding Ecopolitan helped seal the deal in my decision to move here. I've loved everything I've tried on the menu so far -- especially the pizza, strawberry cheesecake, ginger lemonade, macadamia nut pasta, pesto pasta and the tostadas. They also have $16 bottles of organic and biodynamic wines from 3-6 p.m., so if you're intimidated by the idea of raw food, start off with a glass of wine to ease your way into it. I am not a vegetarian or vegan, and I've taken plenty of heavy meat eaters here and they've all enjoyed it. There's nothing to be afraid of. It's all yummy and very filling. --amylcusick

                      Barbette

                      • French
                        • $$$

                          I had my first steak au poivre here a few years ago when I moved to Minneapolis and I have been in love with Barbette ever since. Their food is really great -- the Croque Monsieur, the amazing fries, and yes, the steak au poivre. Since then I've acquired a husband who can make it just as well, but I still like coming to Barbette once in a while for the amazing wine selection, and particularly for the cozy atmosphere where tables can be so close that you just might make new friends at the table adjacent to you. Isn't that what Minnesota Nice should be all about? --abergman

                          $

                          • Common Roots Cafe: American. An eco-friendly cafe featuring deliciously chewy bagels, zippy salads, sandwiches and a few great dinner entrees, with an emphasis on locally grown ingredients.
                            • Falafel King: Middle Eastern. Falafel, gyros and more served cafeteria-style.
                              • The Herkimer Pub & Brewery: American. Brewpub serving sandwiches and burgers. A spicy Cuban pork sandwich is the specialty. There's also a shuffleboard court.
                                • Isles Bun & Coffee Co.: Bakery/Coffee. Caramel and cinnamon rolls, sweet breads, cookies, brownies, cakes and other goodies to make you salivate.
                                  • Namaste Cafe: Asian/Nepalese. Mostly vegetarian restaurant featuring mamacha (savory steamed dumplings), curries and other dishes from Nepal and elsewhere in South Asia. Also many varieties of tea and chai.

                                    $$

                                    Burger Jones. Photo by Tom Wallace

                                    • Amazing Thailand: Thai food and drink in the heart of Uptown.
                                      • Bar Abilene: Southwestern. The lively bar pours more than 40 tequilas and shakes up two dozen margaritas. The menu focuses on contemporary Tex-Mex fare.
                                        • Bryant Lake Bowl: American. Perhaps the most creative menu you'll encounter at a bowling alley. The kitchen cranks out an appealing range of snacks and full meals. Breakfast is hugely popular, particularly on weekends. The beer and ale list is exceptional, as is the affordable, adventurous wine list.
                                          • Burger Jones: American. Burgers and all the fixings get the premium treatment: velvety and addictive shakes and malts made with frozen custard, large hand-formed beef patties on toasted sesame-seed buns with Minnesota-made cheese, a tower of fries with multiple dipping sauces. The bison burger was tasty, but turkey, tuna and veggie versions were not.
                                            • Chiang Mai Thai: Thai. Serving appetizers, curries, Thai noodles, stir-frys, thai soup and desserts.
                                              • Chino Latino: Fusion. Colorful and trendy, this enormous restaurant and bar emphasizes highly seasoned street foods from equatorial regions throughout the world: India, Indonesia, Latin America, the Caribbean and the Orient, served in meant-to-be-shared portions. A late-night happy hour knocks out tacos and other fast food at bargain-basement prices.
                                                • Duplex: American. A former apartment house has become an intimate, charming bistro and wine bar. The setting is matched by imaginative cuisine, reasonable prices and friendly, polished service.
                                                  • Ecopolitan: Raw/vegetarian. The Twin Cities' first raw-food restaurant -- a pioneer in the gustatory movement that lies well to the left of vegetarianism and a few steps beyond the vegans.
                                                    • El Meson: Latin. The modest storefront Latin bistro, with cozy romantic alcoves, has been serving dishes such as arroz con pollo and carnitas con mofongo for nearly two decades. True to the flavors and spirit of Latin cuisines, but with updated techniques and presentation.
                                                      • El Paraiso: Mexican. An impressive list of seafood dishes, as well as other traditional south-of-the-border fare. The Vuelve a la Vida is a big seafood cocktail of shrimp, octopus and other seafood, and there are several different types of parillada, a stovetop grill brimming with combinations of meat and/or seafood.
                                                        • Famous Dave's BBQ & Blues: Barbecue. Funky restaurant and blues club serving Dave Anderson's St. Louis-style ribs.
                                                          • Favor Cafe: American/Caribbean. Lake Street's first soul food restaurant, with a little Creole and some Jamaican.
                                                            • French Meadow Bakery & Cafe: American/Bakery. Vegetarian selections, soups, salads, sandwiches, soups, along with a few meat dishes, and baked goods.
                                                              • Fuji Ya - Uptown: Sushi. Japanese-style noodle soups, tempura, sushi bar, seasonal outdoor seating and private Zashiki rooms for two to six people.
                                                                • Galactic Pizza: Pizza. At this non-traditional pizzeria, all the traditional toppings are available, but Galactic's long list of options also includes morel and shiitake mushrooms, wild rice, buffalo sausage, and for vegan customers, mock duck, nondairy mozzarella, and a range of sauces including tomato, ranch, barbecue, Thai peanut and garlic and olive oil. The pizzas are better than average, especially the Thailander. Hemp is prominently featured in several menu items.
                                                                  • Gigi's Cafe: American/Coffee. Neighborhood coffeehouse, plus a wine bar and expanded food offerings.
                                                                    • It's Greek to Me: Greek/Middle Eastern. Authentic Greek specialties in a tavern atmosphere.
                                                                      • Lyndale Tap House: American. Gastro-pub with slow-roasted beef and 18 tap beers.
                                                                        • Rinata Restaurant: Italian. Jonathan Hunt cooks familiar, crowd-pleasing food, often doing it well. A dozen pasta-risotti-gnocchi options anchor the menu, with a satisfying rendition of spaghetti and meatballs and a classic pairing of peas and pancetta with fettuccine.
                                                                          • Roat Osha: Thai. Stylish second effort by the spouses behind Tum Rup Thai. The lengthy menu covers all the familiar bases, but much of it is rather boilerplate.
                                                                            • Sushi Tango: Sushi. Sushi restaurant located inside Calhoun Square.
                                                                              • Williams Uptown Pub & Peanut Bar: American. Featuring 300 bottled beers and 70 draft beers. Serving classic American pub food until midnight.

                                                                                $$$

                                                                                • Amore Victoria: Italian. Definitely Italian-American rather than "authentic" Italian, but it offers more variety and better quality than the usual red sauce restaurant.
                                                                                  • Barbette: American/Bistro. Barbette focuses its considerable creative energies on incorporating local, seasonal and organic ingredients into uncomplicated, classically satisfying bistro fare, served in quirky, vintage-store surroundings. The menu changes weekly. The late-night menu ranks as one of the best in town. Wine list: Extraordinary collection of affordable, unusual labels.
                                                                                    • Lucia's Restaurant: American. Proprietor Lucia Watson makes this Uptown storefront (and adjacent bakery and takeout counter) a happy place. Another major draw is the food, inspired by the restaurant's 25-year commitment to local farmers. The short menu changes weekly. The adjoining wine bar is Uptown's most romantic post-movie destination.
                                                                                      • Rudolph's Bar-B-Que: Barbecue. Barbecued ribs and chicken served in a restaurant with an old-time Hollywood theme.
                                                                                        • Stella's Fish Cafe and Prestige Oyster Bar: Seafood. Casual seafood restaurant with the soul of a low-country lunch counter. Best asset is the famed rooftop patio.
                                                                                          • Tryg's: American. Skillful combination of trendy and nostalgic with updated comfort food offerings.

                                                                                            Minneapolis

                                                                                            St. Paul

                                                                                            The Suburbs »
                                                                                            Chains »

                                                                                            Price Guide:

                                                                                            about the writer

                                                                                            about the writer

                                                                                            Staff