Confession: I rarely venture to Uptown anymore. A few recent trips to Social House, the latest incarnation of Zeno and Fusion at the corner of Hennepin and Lagoon, might not have convinced me to make the 15-minute drive on any given day, but is it worth stopping by after my semi-annual trip to Penzeys? Absolutely.
With food that is definitely a notch above that of the Fusion days, Social House offers a menu mainly focusing on sushi and small plates -- though "small" can be deceiving, as some offer quite generous portions. Bacon cheeseburger egg rolls ($10), featuring Kobe beef and cheddar, proved the State Fair theory that deep-frying anything makes it better. Though the accompanying habañero ketchup didn't live up to its promised heat, we dug the rolls' crispy exterior and umami-rich interior.
Most successful among the small plates, though, were the Asian-inspired tacos. The Korean tacos, which combined marinated beef, a cabbage/red onion slaw and Korean barbecue sauce, would have rated a perfect 10 if the meat weren't just a tad overcooked. Luckily, the fresh and crunchy slaw and spicy sauce more than compensated for the meat's shortcomings, and at $7.50 for three decent-sized tacos, it's a great deal.
When it comes to sushi, you'll be better served if you look toward the signature rolls section ($16 each) of the menu. The sourness of the cream cheese in the Philly roll ($6.50) disappointed us, as did the utter lack of heat in the spicy tuna maki ($7). Instead, feast on the Copasectic roll, which includes tuna, salmon, gobo, avocado, Sriracha and spicy mayo. It'll give your tastebuds the shock they expect while the tobiko (flying fish roe) crunch adds another layer of texture.
The lineup of ingredients in the signature Social House Roll may seem excessive at first, but the combination of shrimp, tobiko, gobo, cucumber, tuna, fried potatoes, truffle oil and spicy mayonnaise somehow comes together smoothly. The balance of textures also plays a key role in the success of the lobster roll, which features the crunch of asparagus and bits of tempura topping the pieces. Pico de gallo plays surprisingly well off the spicy mayo and sweet lobster meat. The only reason we had a few pieces left on our plate is that we were too full, not because they weren't tasty.
With its Asian-inspired decor, red and black accents, and a sleek bar, Social House offers a sophisticated scene that's appealing to all -- moviegoers, shoppers, bar hoppers and even moms like me.
THE CHURN
The Minnesota Landscape Arboretum in Chaska is having tastings of comfort foods plus beer and wine samples at its upcoming Winter Hearty celebration and fundraiser. (2-5 p.m. Jan. 29. $40 per person. Reservations at www.arboretum.umn.edu.)
- The Heavy Table team writes about food and drink in the Upper Midwest five days a week, twice a day, at www.heavytable.com
