When thinking about Mexican food, the word beginning with the letter O that typically comes to mind is "Olé!" But after a visit to Ciento Tequila Bar and Mexican Kitchen, you'd be more likely to say "Oy." Located in the old Majors Sports Cafe off Interstate 394 and Louisiana Avenue, this new concept from Premier Restaurant Management beckons customers with promises of more than 100 tequilas and "authentic and creative" Mexican food, but as a recent evening there revealed, the uneven dining experience at Ciento will also have you saying "no" much more than "sí." Lo siento, but Barrio this ain't.
As a restaurant that touts its drinks before the food in its name, you'd think Ciento's servers would be thoroughly versed in its menu of 111 tequilas, ranging from $4 shots of oro and mezcal varieties to an $85 shot of Patron Burdeos. Since the members of our group didn't all know the ins and outs of each kind of tequila, we asked our server to walk us through the menu. "Wait just a minute," she called back as she ran to the bar to fetch a paper sign that explained the differences among the tequilas and then read it to us, word for word. When we asked for recommendations, she deferred to the host on duty, who had a much better grasp of the selection. Note to management: If you're going to bill yourself as a tequila bar, your staff should know the tequila.
Entrees partially compensated for lackluster drinks and apps. The fish dishes stood out for their expert seasoning and texture. The seared tuna tacos ($12) featured a jalapeño cabbage slaw that added a pleasant crunch to the tender fish, and the tilapia veracruz ($15) garnered raves for its orange-spiked flavor and the addictive sautéed onions on the side. Once the flour tortillas arrived on the side of the chile-rubbed tuna, we realized it was practically the same dish as the tuna tacos but for $7 more. Still tasty, just more expensive.
A mixed grill of chicken and skirt steak fajitas ($16) performed admirably, with the nicely charred steak edging out the extremely lightly seasoned chicken for best filling. The meat in the carnitas tacos ($8), however, tasted a bit dry, as did its accompanying rice and beans. When measured up against the same dish at Barrio, there was no comparison to the moist, flavorful and balanced meat at that establishment's locations in downtown Minneapolis and St. Paul.
With dessert, our meal took a turn for the worse. It wasn't the fault of the fried ice cream and apple fajitas -- both had their fans -- but it was the tres leches cake, which we had to return to the kitchen due to its rancid taste. When we told our waitress about the gag-inducing pastry, she hinted that it hadn't been the first time the kitchen had received such a complaint. Really? Perhaps it doesn't belong on the menu then.
Our waitress did give us one good tip, however. "Back home in Grand Forks [N.D.], we have Paradiso, and this is a big step up from there," she shared as we settled the bill. Note to selves: If ever in Grand Forks, steer clear of Paradiso.
The churn
If you're taking the Eat Local Challenge this month -- or just trying to cut back on McWhatevers -- head out to the Valley Natural Foods co-op demo kiosk at 13750 County Rd. 11 in Burnsville on Saturday. There you can sample and pick up field-fresh recipes from 3 to 5 p.m. every Saturday in August. Produce geniuses will be on hand to cook with the freshest seasonal stuff.