It catches your eye not far past Five Mile Rock north of Grand Marais, somewhere between Kimball Creek and the Kadunce River. A thicket? A massive pile of rocks? Landlocked beaver dams pocked with animal dioramas?
But we whizzed by, mostly focused on the big lake that glimmered like diamonds on a brilliant summer day. "What in the heck was that?" I asked my wife. "Remind me to slow down on the way back."
The — what's the word — monument must have had the same impact on people driving north to visit the highest waterfalls in Minnesota near the border at Grand Portage State Park. Several other cars had marked the mileage and were parked along the west side of the road. People wandered the strip of lawn along what seemed to be 100 yards of frontage of a small, white cottage.
The falls were an incredible natural force that day, plunging in multiple rivulets into the cola-colored water. But the odd roadside attraction was mesmerizing too, and it was handmade, constructed by bucketfuls of rocks, wheelbarrow after wheelbarrow of stones and trees, moved from cliff side by four-wheeler and, on occasion, a dump truck by a single 63-year-old man.
Intrigued, I asked around at a coffee shop in town. A woman smiled when I mentioned the rock garden, then rolled her eyes and said, "artwork," using fingers to do air quotes. "I think he's a state senator."
Indeed, this menagerie of rock, stone, tree limbs and carved or forged animals is the four-year project of Sen. Chuck Wiger, DFL-Maplewood, who bought the small cabin along Hwy. 61 about seven years ago. What started as a small, contained structure meant to creatively use several large trees that were knocked down in a storm a few years ago has spread 500 to 600 feet along the front of his property and grown into a piece of handiwork that stops traffic and confounds tourists.
Several of them were circling Wiger's yard recently, snapping pictures and wondering what would motivate someone to put in the hundreds if not thousands of hours of work hauling and stacking wood and rock into improbable formations that soar without the help of cement or anything. One woman speculated that whoever was behind it must be an engineer or someone with OCD.
Wiger has a simpler explanation. "I've loved rocks since I was a kid," said the 19-year legislator, chair of the education committee. "I love nature and trees."