Sunday supper: Chicken Tagine with Fennel, Chickpeas and Apricots

Serves 4 to 6.

Note: Braising is often associated with cooking large, tough cuts of meat. But it's also great for quicker-cooking proteins like rich, meaty chicken thighs. Here they're used in a tagine that nods to the flavors of Morocco. From "The Complete Autumn and Winter Cookbook," by America's Test Kitchen.

• 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra as needed

• 5 cloves garlic, minced

• 1 1/2 tsp. paprika

• 1/2 tsp. ground turmeric

• 1/2 tsp. ground cumin

• 1/4 tsp. cayenne pepper

• 2 (15-oz.) cans chickpeas, rinsed

• 8 bone-in chicken thighs, trimmed

• 1 large fennel bulb, stalks discarded, bulb halved and cut into wedges 1/2-in. thick through core

• 1/2 tsp. table salt, divided

• 3 (2-in.) strips lemon zest, plus lemon wedges for serving

• 1 cinnamon stick

• 1/2 c. dry white wine

• 1 c. chicken broth

• 1 c. pitted large brine-cured green or black olives, halved

• 2 tbsp. chopped fresh parsley

Directions

Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Combine 1 tablespoon oil, garlic, paprika, turmeric, cumin, ginger and cayenne in bowl; set aside. Place 1/2 cup chickpeas in second bowl and mash to coarse paste with potato masher.

Pat chicken dry with paper towels and sprinkle with 1/4 teaspoon salt and pepper. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch oven-safe skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Cook chicken skin side down until skin is crisped and well browned, 8 to 10 minutes; transfer chicken, skin side up, to plate.

Pour off all but 2 tablespoons fat from skillet (or, if necessary, add extra oil to equal 2 tablespoons). Heat fat left in skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Arrange fennel, cut side down. in skillet and sprinkle with remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt. Cover and cook until lightly browned, 3 to 5 minutes per side. Push fennel to sides of skillet. Add spice mixture, lemon zest and cinnamon stick to center and cook, mashing spice mixture into skillet, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir spice mixture into fennel. Stir in wine, scraping up any browned bits, and cook until almost evaporated, about 2 minutes.