Note: The sauce for this pasta is made by blitzing artichokes in a blender. For ease, we use canned artichokes instead of fresh, but we first brown them in a mixture of olive oil and rendered pancetta fat to build flavor in the sauce. (Make sure you're not using marinated artichokes, as their flavor is too sharp and tangy for this recipe.) The crisp bits of pancetta lend texture and saltiness, lemon adds brightness and balance, and a generous amount of Parmesan ties all the elements together. From "Milk Street Vegetables," by Christopher Kimball (Voracious, 2021).

• 1 lb. linguine or fettuccine

• Kosher salt and ground black pepper

• 1 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for serving

• 4 oz. pancetta, chopped

• 1 (14-oz.) can artichoke hearts, drained, patted dry and quartered if whole (see Note)

• 1 tbsp. grated lemon zest, plus 3 tbsp. lemon juice

• 1 c. Parmesan cheese, finely grated, plus more for serving

• 1/2 c. finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, chives or basil

Directions

In a large pot, bring 4 quarts water to a boil. Stir in the pasta and 1 tablespoon salt, then cook, stirring occasionally, until al dente. Reserve about 2 cups of the cooking water, then drain.

In the same pot over medium setting, heat the oil until shimmering. Add the pancetta and cook, stirring, until crisp, 3 to 4 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a small plate; set aside. Add the artichokes to the pot and cook, stirring, until they begin to brown at the edges, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat. Transfer half the artichokes to a small bowl; add the remainder to a blender. Reserve the pot.

To the artichokes in the blender, add 1/2 cup cooking water, the lemon juice and 1/4 teaspoon each of salt and pepper; purée until smooth. In the same pot over medium heat, bring 1 cup of the remaining cooking water to a simmer, scraping up any browned bits. Add the artichoke purée, pasta, lemon zest, pancetta, Parmesan and parsley (or chives or basil). Cook, tossing to combine, just until the noodles are heated through, 1 to 2 minutes; add more reserved water as needed to make a silky sauce. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a serving bowl and top with the reserved artichokes, along with additional oil and Parmesan.