Maple syrup and maple sugar, the first local foods to show up in our farmers markets, reflect to me that spring is finally here. The sap began flowing early this year, says Stephen Horner of Horner's Corner, a vendor at Mill City Farmers Market in Minneapolis. He and his wife, Sandy, tap maples in western Wisconsin.
"It's not farming, it's an obsession," he says.
Maple syrup and sugar are staples in my kitchen. The syrup is not just for pancakes; it gives a sweet, woody lift to vinaigrettes and meat glazes.
I use maple sugar in all my baking — brownies, toffee bars, cookies and granola. Unlike refined white sugar that is sweet but neutral, maple sugar's distinctive flavor allows me to use less. It's pricey, but the extra dimension it adds is well worth the cost.
Maple sugar is especially nice in biscotti, the twice-baked Italian cookie that can be savory or sweet. I make biscotti in stages, which works well in these stay-at-home days. The first is to make the dough. You can let it rest in the refrigerator until you are ready to shape into logs; these can be held, wrapped in plastic, for a couple of days. After baking the logs, they are cut into slices and baked once again. The biscotti will keep several weeks in an airtight container.
These biscotti, sparked with black pepper, a tad maple sweet, are made for dunking in morning coffee or a cup of strong tea. Serve them alongside a salad or bowl of soup at lunch.
When evening comes, head outside to watch the light fade, and nibble them with a tart jam or tangy pickle and slices of well-aged cheese.
Beth Dooley is the author of "In Winter's Kitchen." Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com.
