Caribbean lechon at Public Domain
Pork shoulder sits for 24 hours in a mojo marinade of sour orange, spices, garlic and the juice of any leftover lime, lemon, grapefruit, etc., from the bar at Public Domain.
The next day, chefs Nettie Colón and Gary Sherwood let the pork dry, laying the groundwork for a crusty exterior that will form on the third day, when it gets scored, rubbed in adobo seasoning and roasted for six hours to fall-apart tender, melt-in-your-mouth perfection. When diners order the Caribbean lechon ($14), the pork gets one last sear, followed by a bath in a barbecue sauce made with guava, spiced rum and a single sugar cube.
Food is no afterthought at Public Domain, the new drinks-forward restaurant where there's no cocktail menu, only mixology wizards who can come up with a recipe to match almost any mood. Small plates from Colón, the culinary consultant, draw from food traditions throughout the Caribbean, including Cuba and Puerto Rico. But they also draw from the spirits and practices behind the bar.
"We basically use stuff from the bar, so, lucky for us they have really good rums," said Colón, who's known for her Red Hen Gastrolab pop-ups. "That has been the magic of it."
The lechon could be a filling entree in another setting, but here, it teases the rest of the chefs' handiwork. An unbelievably fluffy egg and cheese sanduíche with Portuguese linguiça sausage. Salted cod fritters. Salt-brined roast chicken. Coconut shallot rice and beans. All of it pairs harmoniously with the expert cocktails.
"I kept going back to the Caribbean, the rum runners, and that kind of food," Colón said. "What would Hemingway be eating at the Floridita in Havana, you know? And being from Puerto Rican descent and having lived in South Florida and the Florida Keys, it just made sense to do something different. It was like coming back home to cook the food I grew up with." (Sharyn Jackson)
119 Washington Av. N., Mpls., publicdomainmpls.com
White Chocolate Oreo Mochi Donut at Mochinut
It's not a proud fact of parenthood, but it's one many of us will admit to under our breath. Sometimes, bribery is necessary. Particularly if you have a strong-willed kiddo on the precipice of not doing something that absolutely has to be done. I know because I parent a child so strong-willed that her immovability quotient falls somewhere between Denali and the Rock of Gibraltar. The trick I've tucked into my back pocket is a new treat she's discovered that I employ on rare occasions. The kid can't refuse a mochi doughnut — particularly one dipped in smooth, rich white chocolate and dusted with Oreo crumbs ($5.55).