Bread, long described as the staff of life, apparently also is the cudgel of cookbook publishing. That sounds rather aggressive, but when the subtitle of one of the year's many bread books is "show the dough who's boss," you go with it.
The number of excellent bread cookbooks this year indicates that our love of loaves hasn't flagged. Even better, many in the current crop deepen our knowledge about ancient grains and flours and the role of breads in ethnic cultures. Several take on the demonization of gluten with a clearheadedness that's often absent in the debate.
"Crumb," by Richard Bertinet (Kyle, $34.99) — the one with the bossy subtitle — continues the superb tradition of his earlier volumes, "Dough" and "Crust." More than 40 recipes and dozens of photos fill the 224 pages, ranging from baguettes to English muffins to salted caramel brioches. Bertinet, known for his method of kneading dough, tries to make this book accessible to the new baker. But honestly, it's geared toward those with some experience. One clue: All recipes are measured in grams. (Time to finally buy that kitchen scale.)
In the same vein, Daniel Leader's "Living Bread: Tradition and Innovation in Artisan Bread Making" (Avery, $40) presumes experience. But Leader, a baking master, also rewards it, with almost 60 recipes such as curry tomato ciabatta, vegan brioche, 100% einkorn bread and chocolate sourdough babka. The first hundred of the book's 368 pages are devoted to a study of flours, techniques and his baking philosophy. Not only are his recipes measured in grams, Leader supplies the baker's percentages, placing this volume firmly in the realm of bakers who know their way around a banneton. This is an essential contribution to the world of bread.
Far more accessible is "Bread on the Table," by David Norman (Ten Speed Press, $35). Here are several dozen recipes sorted by French, Scandinavian, German and Italian roots — plus a chapter on the breads of Central Texas, where Norman lives and owns the Easy Tiger Bake Shop & Beer Garden. Hence, the smoked flour recipe. Recipes are by weight, but also volume, i.e., cups and teaspoons. Norman's instructions are conversational and encouraging. He also has roots in northern Minnesota and worked a stint at the long-gone Gelpe's Old World Bakery in Uptown Minneapolis. Hence, the lefse recipe.
Also deserving of mention: "Flour Lab: An At-Home Guide to Baking with Freshly Milled Grains," by Adam Leonti (Clarkson Potter, $35), is a deep exploration of the challenges and rewards of grinding your own flour for breads, pasta and pastries. Grain geeks, this one's for you.
Regional baked goods shine in Shauna Sever's "Midwest Made: Big, Bold Baking from the Heartland" (Running Press, $30.) She's collected and adapted more than 125 recipes such as Polish paczki, Danish kringle, Ozark skillet cake, Nebraskan runzas and sandbakkels. There's even a Jell-O-inspired dessert, but made with real gelatin and berries. She has the recipe for Chocolate Éclair Dessert in a 9- by 13-inch pan, and a tea loaf that tastes like a powdered sugar doughnut. A lot of yum in these pages.
The folks at America's Test Kitchen rarely are denied a spot on annual "best" lists. This year, they're offering "The Perfect Pie" (ATK, $35) as "the ultimate guide to classic and modern pies, tarts, galettes, and more." It's reliably exhaustive, loaded with product recommendations, touting all-butter crusts, while offering butter-shortening, vegan and gluten-free options, and inspirational with all sorts of top crust ideas among its more than 180 recipes. There's nothing wildly innovative here, but as expected, solid recipes gleaned from relentless testing.
