The blueberries are ready across the border

Just off the highway to Bayfield, Wis., the blueberries are at their peak. At the pick-your-own farms, they hang heavy on their branches and fall into the bucket with a soft thud. Here is the taste of summer's end, tart-sweet, floral, complex and fleeting.

Jane Grigson, the famed British food writer, called blueberries "the aristocrat of soft fruit." Indigenous to North America, there are at least five major varieties currently cultivated for production in our region. The northern highbush berries are what you'll find on small farms.

But look for wild blueberries, the lowbush variety, that grow on scrubby bushes on the borders of woods and beaches. Tiny, deep purple and intense, these are a hiker's delight.

The freshest blueberries are those you pick yourself and find at our farmers markets. Stock up as these freeze exceptionally well. To do so, be sure the berries are dry. Then seal them in airtight freezer bags or containers. You can add them, still frozen, right into batters for pancakes, muffins, breads after first tossing them with a little flour so they don't "bleed" as they bake.

When it comes to blueberry pastries, the showstopper is an open-faced tart in a golden cornmeal crust. Nubby and sweet as a cookie, the crust is firm enough to stand up to the juicy berries without turning soggy. Blueberries contain pectin that turns jammy as the berries burst open. Cooling the pie before slicing helps the filling firm up before serving. It's always good with a generous scoop of vanilla ice cream.

Beth Dooley is the author of "In Winter's Kitchen." Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com.

Makes a 9-or 10-inch pie.

Note: This golden crust is nubby, slightly sweet and stays firm as the berries burst open as they bake. Allow this tart to cool before slicing. From Beth Dooley.

For the crust:

• 1/2 c. cornmeal

• 1/2 c. flour

• 1/4 tsp. salt

• 1 tbsp. sugar

• 1 tsp. baking powder

• 2 tbsp. butter

• 1/4 c. cold milk or cream

Filling:

• 3 c. fresh blueberries, sorted, rinsed, drained and patted dry

• 1 tsp. grated lemon zest

• 2 to 3 tbsp. sugar, to taste

• Powdered sugar for garnish, optional

Directions

For the crust: In a large bowl, stir together the cornmeal, flour, salt, 1 tablespoon sugar and baking powder. Cut in the butter with 2 knives or your fingers until the consistency is that of small peas. Add the milk and toss the mixture together lightly until just combined, then gather into a ball, cover and refrigerate for about 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. On a lightly floured surface with a lightly floured rolling pin, roll out the dough slowly and evenly (be gentle). Cut to fit a 9-inch pie tin or shape into a free form tart. Crimp the edges to form a border.

For the filling: In a medium bowl, toss together the blueberries, lemon zest and sugar. Arrange over the crust. Bake until the berries have burst and are bubbly, about 20 to 30 minutes. Allow to cool to room temperature. Dust with the powdered sugar, if using, before slicing and serving.

Nutrition information per each of 8 servings:

Calories145

Fat3 g

Sodium160 mg

Carbohydrates27 g

Saturated fat2 g

Added sugars5 g

Protein2 g

Cholesterol8 mg

Dietary fiber2 g

Exchanges per serving: ½ fruit, 1 starch, ½ carb, ½ fat.