Bowling goes beyond upscale in Edina
Don't call this place a bowling alley. At the very least, call it an upscale bowling alley.
Owner Dale Schwartz would contend that Pinstripes is much more than that. Based on one look at the place on opening night last weekend, he's right. The 32,000-square-foot complex includes 16 bowling lanes, eight indoor bocce ball courts and a swanky Italian-American restaurant.
No shaggy carpet here. No Big Lebowski types clad in polyester league shirts. Here's what I found instead: bowlers resting on plush leather sofas between turns. Servers attending to each lane with trays of cocktails and entrees. Wine bottles cradled in ice buckets. A sax player crooning in the bar.
Nationally, the froufrou bowling trend has been rolling along nicely for a decade. This is Pinstripes' third location (Schwartz built the first two in Chicago suburbs). Edina's Pinstripes is sprawled across two levels, each with big glass windows overlooking Centennial Lakes Park. Upon entering, you're greeted by a large, winding wrought-iron staircase and the bocce courts. The bocce players on Saturday night seemed to be having the most fun -- many crowded the courts with a ball in one hand and a colorful cocktail in the other. Games cost between $8 and $10 an hour a person. The pricing is a far cry from the dungeony Half-Time Rec in St. Paul, where it's free after league play.
Beyond the bowling and bocce, Schwartz seemed most eager to push Pinstripes' restaurant and bar. The look will remind you of other haute suburban endeavors -- as if Crave had decided to attach itself to a bowling alley. The Italian-American menu will be familiar to foodies, but might prove esoteric to bowling-alley rats. Small plates and flatbreads range from $7 to $13. Pastas and entrees are $12 to $23.
Opening in the winter must have seemed like a good idea, except for the fact that Pinstripes' 9,000 square feet of impressive outdoor space just seems like a tease now. The two fire pits and scenic views of the lake and pine trees will be coveted seats when the snow melts.
With shoes, a couple games of bowling on a Saturday night will cost you $18. And that's before drinks. It's not cheap. And obviously, there's something genuine and charming about patronizing the Twin Cities' grungy, old-school bowling alleys.
But as I sat on that slick leather sofa, sipping my glass of chilled sauvignon blanc, waiting my turn to bowl on Saturday night, I contemplated: Even bowlers want to be spoiled, right?