New breweries shine at Winterfest
Friday night's 10th annual Winterfest at the Minnesota History Center could have been seen as something of a blasé affair. Thanks to a healthy batch of new brewers, however, the Minnesota Craft Brewers Guild's cold-season showcase was anything but stale.
New from the Land of Sky Blue Waters (for real): Ely's Boathouse Brewpub pushed the boundaries on a couple of its beers, especially the Alten Furz, a German lagered ale topped off with batches of wild rice that give it a unique earthy flavor. Boathouse also had a smoked porter laced with cacao vanilla called Camper's Delight.
New from the Twin Cities: Vadnais Heights' Big Wood Brewing Co. rose to the occasion with a coffee stout (predictably named Morning Wood), plus an excellent Imperial IPA and its truly pine-flavored Forest Ale. Minneapolis' Harriet Brewing Co. wisely set itself apart with a focus on Belgian brews, led by the Divine Ocultist, a surprisingly accessible strong-golden ale.
Best of the rest: Brau Brothers' Rubus Blackberry Imperial Porter was my first beer of the night, and I could've drunk it all night. Town Hall Brewery had the best fruit beer of the night, Pink Eye (its killer honey beer plus red tart cherries), along with the hop-slammed HMF (a strong pale ale) and a decadent Russian Imperial Stout aged in Jack Daniels barrels. The Herkimer offered its golden Czech Pils, probably now the best pilsner in the Cities. And any beer nut who overlooked Summit's Unchained brews would've been reminded of their greatness by the Imperial Pumpkin Porter.
As for Surly: The Twin Cities' rock-star brewer always goes all out for Winterfest. This year, I think it went a little too far out. I just couldn't savor the chili-peppered Molé Smoke. The Abrasive (a double oatmeal, oak-aged, dry-hopped IPA ... uff da!) truly lived up to its name. And I actually saw people wince after sampling the much-ballyhooed Pentagram, a dark ale fermented in 100 percent Brettanomyces yeast that's as sour as Glenn Beck. Pentagram did win the best-in-show award, though, so clearly plenty of people deemed its sourness a sweet success.
- Chris Riemenschneider
Surly wants a new $20 million facility
Surly Brewing unveiled bold plans Monday for a $20 million facility that would house a restaurant and beer garden, and could make it the state's biggest brewer. Before it can break ground or even pick a location, though, the Brooklyn Center-based beermaker will need a change in Minnesota liquor law.
The new facility would have an annual capacity as high as 100,000 barrels, a little more than either Summit of St. Paul or Schell Brewing of New Ulm. The legislative issue is the linchpin. Only small-scale Minnesota breweries are allowed to sell beer for on-site consumption.
"The sad fact is that I could open up this new brewery today in Hudson, Wis., if I wanted, or anywhere in Wisconsin or Illinois, but I don't want to do that," Surly owner Omar Ansari said.