Italian • $ • 211 W. 7th St., St. Paul • 651-222-3476
You want a gabagool sandwich? Fat-noodled manicotti in red sauce with fistfuls of real parm? A slice? Foccocia? Tins of amaretto biscotti, paper-thin slices of bresaola, a brick of tiramisu, sausage and peppers, veal Parmesan, wee jars of imported anchovies and 30 kinds of olive oil? All done with attention to tradition, the way it was done a century ago? If Lidia Bastianich is coming through town with her friend in orange Crocs, this is where you'll take them, in order to prove we know how to do things old-school in the Twin Cities. New York may have Eataly, the shining temple to all things Italian and eatable, but we've got Cossetta, the iconic landmark with the autographed Sinatra on the wall. Now, this already formidable shrine to eats from the boot has undergone a grand expansion, and you'll get all the things listed above, a kajillion more, and well, more, more, more. A gelato case, an espresso bar, an in-house bakery and pastry kitchen, a serious rooftop bar and restaurant (scheduled for next summer) and hopefully, hopefully, a basement wine shop as things continue to progress. I think we can all raise a glass of Chianti to that. MECCA BOS
Dutch • $ • 6 W. 6th St., St. Paul • 651-285-3112
Poor downtown St. Paul, with its reputation as a ghost town past 8 p.m., the little city where they roll up the sidewalks after dark. Amsterdam has come to the rescue, with live music nightly and a bustling bar vibe. But what about the vittles? Sometimes, you need just a little something, and nothing more, and Amsterdam has nailed this particular craving. What do you want to eat when you're drinking a bunch of good beer (about 20 on tap, starting at four bucks)? You want a sandwich, of course -- lovingly tended, reasonably priced and sized so that you can have more than one. Enter the broodjes -- it's a Dutch thing, along with the inspiration for the rest of menu. It's a bit bigger than a slider but not by much, stuffed with your pick of good things -- smoked pork, flank steak, house-made sausage, lots of vegetarian picks, too. Add some truly superior house-cut fries, garnished with diced onion to give them a bewitching funkiness, along with, say, curried ketchup. All of this is served in a paper-lined basket, and less than 10 bucks for the whole shebang! It starts to make lots of other places feel like a straight ripoff. Also, Belgian frites and select beers go for $2 each at happy hour. And hey, ear candy to boot.M.B.
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Babani's Kurdish Restaurant: Middle Eastern. Eatery claims to be the country's first Kurdish restaurant. (544 St. Peter St., St. Paul, 651-602-9964)
DeGidio's Restaurant and Bar: Italian. Old-school family restaurant that serves up one of the best renditions of that controversially named sandwich, the hot dago. DeGidio's version is saucy and sloppy and best eaten with a fork and knife. (425 W. 7th St., St. Paul, 651-291-7105) (James Norton)
Tanpopo Noodle Shop: Japanese. Simple meals of noodles and broth are perfect cold-weather fare, and the atmosphere is as civilized and relaxing as it gets. Sushi specials and killer soy-ginger chicken wings add a more accessible touch. (308 Prince St., St. Paul, 651-209-6527) (J.N.)
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Downtowner Woodfire Grill: American. Woodfire grilled steaks and seafood, Persian fire-roasted kabobs, gourmet pizzas, extensive wine list and a full bar. (253 W. 7th St., St. Paul, 651-228-9500)
Faces Mears Park: American. At David Fhima's remade LoTo, the main menu's format covers a lot of bases: sandwiches, salads, pastas, pizzas and a handful of familiar beef-chicken-fish entrees. (380 Jackson St., St. Paul, 651-209-7776)
Glockenspiel: German. Traditional food and drink in a restaurant decorated with German-themed frescos. Menu may include roasted pork shank with sauerkraut and potato dumpling, rainbow trout, and schnitzel with French fries and vegetables. (605 W. 7th St., St. Paul, 651-292-9421)
